|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||F.F.A. Jeff Thomas, Jack Callahan, 4/7/74|
|Submitted By:||JohnK on Jun 29, 2008|
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Nov 22, 2008
awesome warm-up and worth the hassle of placing gear if done in a single pitch. i got to the top of the first pitch, and realized id only used twenty meters or so of rope, so i linked into the second.
it's fun, varied, clean, and has only one section of challenging gear placement (1st pitch). i shouldnt say that, because i did not clip the fixed pin (looks fresh and solid), or the retro-bolt above. the pin looked like rope drag city, and i had just fiddled in a #4 bd nut in the tricky gear section when i then found and ignored the bolt. if you clipped both of these with long runners, i suppose you might not even have a thin, tricky placement or rope drag.
put long runners on everything, and downclimb to unclip the first bolt (on ledge) once you have the second clipped.
the moves and rock make this a great moderate. the only thing that leaves a bad taste is the top belay, which is shockingly uncomfortable. someone recently placed a bolt above and right - i didnt see it until we were done - so use this to make the belay more comfortable.
when done as a single pitch, its long as hell - i would use a 70m if you want to be able to lower (didnt do this, we topped out and rapped off elsewhere), and Tie a Knot in the belay end of the rope. i cant guarantee that a 70 will get you to the ground from the top anchor, but you should be able to improvise.
From: Bend, Or.
Apr 13, 2011
|I linked the awesome 5.8 top pitch by starting on the Taiwan On arete, (hardest 10c in the planet @##&). A lot more fun than the sketchy 5.5 start. Rappelled fine with a 70m. Tie knots though!|
By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
May 1, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|The fixed pins that previously protected the thin crack on P1 are now gone. There is a decent medium-small nut placement in the lower part of the crack, and a great placement for a teeny-tiny nut a bit higher... too small to really trust though. Best bet is to clip that bolt out to your right.|
By Eric Fjellanger
May 7, 2012
|This goes very nicely as one long pitch using a 70, you could probably do it with a 60 and a little easy simuling.|
By Richard Denker
From: Portland OR
1 day ago
|Note the fixed pins on the first pitch are gone. As even if you clip the Headless Horseman bolt it is still R. The first chance for pro after the traverse is up a bit in the corner It takes a very small Rock Stopper (#1 or 2). About 2 meters above that is a bolt (Taiwan On route). Use it! Soon after that is the anchor. If you feel the need to protect the 5.5 approach, you probability should not lead this; the route between the bolt on Headless Horseman to the bolt on Taiwan On is long, runout, 5.8 and is not to marginally protected.|