|The Four Horsemen
Pack Animal Direct
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 40'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Tom Rogers & Jeff Elphinston 1972, FFA: Jeff Thomas & Chet Sutterlin 3/77|
|Season: ||year round|
|Page Views: ||1,646|
|Submitted By: ||rpc on Jan 27, 2006|
|Good Page?||1 person likes this page. Your opinion: |
Pack Animal Direct offers a harder option for Pack Animal pitch 1 (Pack Animal is a 2-pitch 5.8 trad line on the Four Horsemen). It is listed in the guidebook as a separate route.
Look for a 30-foot, right-facing dihedral capped by a small roof (it's on the face just right of Headless Horseman). Dihedral starts about 10 feet above ground.
Scramble up to base of dihedral (c. 5.7). Stem your way up the clean corner. There's an intermittent crack in corner (improves a bit higher up) but it's THIN (tips for most). At top, step left just below the roof to a bolted anchor atop pitch 1 of Pack Animal. The route felt hard for the grade.
Many small nuts. Small cams up to #0.75 Camalot (1 spot for this one).
Shirley sending Pack Animal Direct.
I would never have thought I had been climbing lon...
|Comments on Pack Animal Direct
|By Bryson Slothower|
May 8, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
This route feels hard for the grade to me too. A fun option is to continue to the top of Pack Animal in one long pitch.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Fun, technical stemming and fingering up a well protected (by small nuts) corner. Clip the bolt off right with a long sling if you don't want a bit of a run to the first piece. Like the description mentions above, it is pretty much all small nuts and one 0.75 Camalot. The second pitch was good fun 5.8 stemming as well. A 70m rope made it to the ground.