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The Four Horsemen
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Calamity Jam 
Crack Of Infinity 
Friday's Jinx 
Headless Horseman 
John Galt Line 
No Golf Shoes 
Pack Animal 
Pack Animal Direct 
Snuffy Smith 
Taiwan On 
Tuff It Out 

Pack Animal Direct 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Rogers & Jeff Elphinston 1972, FFA: Jeff Thomas & Chet Sutterlin 3/77
Season: year round
Page Views: 1,716
Submitted By: rpc on Jan 27, 2006
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Pack Animal Direct
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>


Pack Animal Direct offers a harder option for Pack Animal pitch 1 (Pack Animal is a 2-pitch 5.8 trad line on the Four Horsemen). It is listed in the guidebook as a separate route.

Look for a 30-foot, right-facing dihedral capped by a small roof (it's on the face just right of Headless Horseman). Dihedral starts about 10 feet above ground.

Scramble up to base of dihedral (c. 5.7). Stem your way up the clean corner. There's an intermittent crack in corner (improves a bit higher up) but it's THIN (tips for most). At top, step left just below the roof to a bolted anchor atop pitch 1 of Pack Animal. The route felt hard for the grade.


Many small nuts. Small cams up to #0.75 Camalot (1 spot for this one).

Photos of Pack Animal Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Shirley sending Pack Animal Direct.
Shirley sending Pack Animal Direct.
I would never have thought I had been climbing long enough to post a photo from "Back In the Day", but here I am on PAD.  This has always been among my favorite Smith routes, and is a great example of the type of climbing those who dismiss Smith as "just sport climbing" are missing out on.
I would never have thought I had been climbing lon...
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By Bryson Slothower
May 8, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

This route feels hard for the grade to me too. A fun option is to continue to the top of Pack Animal in one long pitch.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Fun, technical stemming and fingering up a well protected (by small nuts) corner. Clip the bolt off right with a long sling if you don't want a bit of a run to the first piece. Like the description mentions above, it is pretty much all small nuts and one 0.75 Camalot. The second pitch was good fun 5.8 stemming as well. A 70m rope made it to the ground.