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gear for Squamish?

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By Nancy B
From Tucson, AZ
Jun 28, 2008

What gear do I need for Squamish? I am planning on taking double set of Aliens, lots of nuts, Camelots .5 to 3, quickdraws and runners. My big question is about ropes. I have 50 m double ropes but have heard that is not long enough. I also have a 70 m rope and a skinny 50 m rope, that I could make work if the raps are really 60 m.

By Peter Spindloe
Administrator
From North Vancouver, BC
Jun 29, 2008
Starting the fourth class downclimb.  Photo by Ted. August 2007.

It really depends on what routes you want to do. Not very many raps are mandatory 60m so a 70 and a 50 will get you down most things without having to do any ugly knot passing if you're trying to do 60m exactly.

A single 70m is great for many things, including many good multi-pitches. Tony Bubb and I did the Grand Wall today with a single 70m and am pretty sure now that you could even retreat with it, even the Split Pillar, which is the longest pitch. Other climbs that are great with a single 70m would be any Apron route to the Squamish Buttress, Angel's Crest, Exasperator, Rutabega and Arrowroot if you're careful.

The protection you listed will also serve you well for many routes, although The Grand Wall needs more for the Split Pillar, and double .5 Camalots are also nice for the Sword. Ask around for beta on the routes you plan to do, of course.

By Tony Bubb
From Boulder, CO
Jun 30, 2008
Nick Walker, Eric Pinkston, and Tony Bubb climb on the Purdue Campus. Photo taken by a cop, 1992.  No joke.

Depending on how far up your aliens go, you might consider double camalots up to 2". While a single 70M is handy, I can't recall anything that two 50M ropes couldn't get you up or off of.


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