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Squamish recommendations?

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By ElyseSokoloff
From Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 31, 2008

We'll be in Squamish at the end of August; it'll be my first time and I'm totally stoked. I'm looking for some recommendations for great single pitch or easy multipitch climbing. I'll be 19 weeks pregnant so I don't want something too committing (ie with risk of benighting) but am definitely looking to experience this amazing place. We have the 1992 Mclane guidebook for reference but could definitely buy something new if there's a better option out there. TIA!

By Moof
From Portland, OR
Jul 31, 2008

For modest single pitch stuff head to the smoke bluffs for lots of single pitch tomfoolery.

Smoke Bluffs
Penny Lane 5.9
The 5.8 and 5.9 on the Octopus Garden
Many more...

Also see the Malemutes:
Starr Wall alone is a full day of single pitch. You rap in, and climb out. If necessary you can keep rapping down off trees to the railroad tracks (all that excellent stuff down there is now closed). Look up Gonch Pull, High Mountai Woody, etc.

I'll have to dig out my guidebook and find the names of a bunch more of my favories tonight.

By manuel rangel
From tempe, az
Jul 31, 2008
I loved the Needles of the <br />Southern Sierra.  The route is Don Juan Wall 11b, this shot was taken by a hard woman just before my manly fall.

when you guys gonna be there? I will be there 8/7-17. Great to see you two there.

By ElyseSokoloff
From Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 31, 2008

manuel rangel wrote:
when you guys gonna be there? I will be there 8/7-17. Great to see you two there.


Shoot we'll miss you by a week. We don't head over til the 27th. That would have been fun.

By ben kenobi
From Portland, OR & Olympia, WA
Aug 1, 2008
Me on Straightshooter

You'll be just fine with the older Mclane guide. Most of the best routes are in there. Agree with Moof, the Smoke Bluffs have more beautiful one pitch lines than you'll know what to do with. Just pick a crag and go!

In terms of multipitch, check out the already crowded Apron. Many classic routes, including Diedre and Snake. Harder lines abound as well. Rock On is a very popular route, and almost always, these routes have people on them. Best bet is to wake early and beat the crowd, or start in the late afternoon. Also, check out Bird's of Prey on the Squaw. It's another good one. Base of the Chief has some fantastic cracks in the 5.10 range. REally, anywhere you go, you'll find good routes. All of the ones I mentioned above are damn popular and you should expect a line. Happy climbing.

By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From Portland, OR
Aug 1, 2008
Belay

The Exasperator is not to be missed.

Take an extra few cams and nuts and link up both pitches into one long great one.

By ElyseSokoloff
From Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 1, 2008

Thanks for the input. We can't wait!

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Jackson Hole, WY
Aug 2, 2008
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me? Hint, its on Supercrack Buttress

Hopefully they'll get this mess cleaned up. Massive rock slide!
http://www.cbc.ca/canada/british-columbia/story/2008/08/02/h>>>>>

By manuel rangel
From tempe, az
Aug 18, 2008
I loved the Needles of the <br />Southern Sierra.  The route is Don Juan Wall 11b, this shot was taken by a hard woman just before my manly fall.

Elyse, we had a great time, did Exasperator in one pitch (2nd a tad painful on my tips, too big)and I would do it again in two pitches and comfortable in late afternoon; Deidre was good, kinda hot. Smoke Bluffs has some great crags, just wander. If you want more beta, email.


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