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West Car Body Canyon
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Pabst Smear 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom McLeod - 1975
Page Views: 682
Submitted By: Cory on Apr 26, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Me on Pabst Smear. Chris took this pic from East C...

Seasonal Raptor Closures.

Description 

Technical and sustained palming, smearing, and stemming. Don't underestimate the finish, this route doesn't let up until you are at the anchor!

Apparently this route originally went on gear and was subsequently retro-bolted. Without the bolts the pro looked like it would be very thin and tricky! What a bold FA!

Location 

The bolted line between the two obvious offwidths.

Protection 

6 bolts to 2 rap hangers


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By Trevor.
Oct 14, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Super fun and sustained stemming that doesn't let up til the top. It's well protected once you make that first clip.
By Maurice Chaunders
May 15, 2014

Like the man says...great stemming and nicely bolted. Or try it with wires and small gear.