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The climber is right below the crux. There is a g...
This route was named for the 38 pitons used on the first ascent.
Locate a large buttress 200' past the Uberfall, almost directly across from the "Uber-pooper", right before the trail that leads to Jackie and Classic. Look for a prominent left-leaning crack above a low bulge.
P1: Start by pulling the small overhang below the left-leaning crack. Follow this mixed-size crack to a crux at the end of the crack. There is good gear nearby, but it's pumpy to hang out and place it. After pulling past the awkward crux move, head up and traverse left across a ledge system. There is a 5.8 move at the end of the traverse, which is a little runout. Continue up the finger crack above to the huge pine tree (note that it is rotting).
Descend via Radcliffe, the Uberfall Descent or downclimb the 4th-class chimney to the right.
Standard Rack, extra finger-size cams.
Michelle Moffat follows P38 (10b, S). I think... P...
David Silverstein just above the hard part
Lance moving into the crux.
Topping out on P38. November 26, 2011.
|By Mike fenice|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 10, 2006
This climb is very pumpy for the grade but then again I'm not very good at flared cracks. I placed mostly small passive pro up to the crux but it's difficult to protect because of the flared pin scars. Rich Gottlieb says he soloed this route back in the day.....I need to climb harder? I wouldn't bring anything bigger then a #1 Camalot.
Sep 27, 2006
this is a great route to enter the grade because the gear is good. first couple moves off of the ground are a bit cruxy too, but can get good stoppers and gear through most of the bottom section.
|By Dana Bartlett|
Apr 30, 2008
Mike, this climb has changed a lot since I first did it in 1977. Holds have broken off at the start and also on the face to the left of where the crack ends. This climb used to be closer to 5.9 than 5.10.
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.10a PG13
used double ropes, lead crack with right rope, and used left rope on the leftward traverse. a #3 camalot was nice for the last move up above the left traverse, just before you break right again. doing it this way felt fairly well protected. good route for breaking into the grade as the crux is well protected, and with the double ropes or other trickery the easier climbing is well protected.
for what it is worth, i was actually more scared on several of the G and PG rated (Swain's guide) 5.7's and 5.8's than i was on P-38. i added the PG13 here because of the ledges a bit higher. the climbing isn't too hard, but i thought i would err on the side of caution. if a person makes it through the crux down low, they should probably be ok up higher.
From: Wayne, PA
Sep 14, 2009
As a second, i really enjoyed this climb. It's technical, requires balance and good sequencing. THe crux for me was the headwall at the finish. I had a tough time negotiating the pebbles.
|By Dr. Evil|
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 23, 2010
The climbing on this route is super fun.
I would call this route very well protected. What the description calls a runout move after the traverse can be protected well by a small nut, and the climbing is pretty easy at that point. The actual 10 climbing can be sewn up with small-medium nuts.
|By Anthony Baraff|
From: Paris, France
Jan 26, 2010
Dick Williams lists many climbs like this as G because the crux is G although there may be substantial PG-13 or R rated climbing before or after the crux, i.e. (Land's End Direct, The Blackout) Personally, I don't think either of those routes are G; ditto that for this one.
Aug 30, 2010
For those who don't want to lead it, it's pretty straightforward to set up a toprope on it by ascending Radcliffe (class 4) and building an anchor above P38. You'll need some directional gear (because the crack is leaning), which can be set when rapping down the route after setting up your toprope anchor.
There are 2 ways to do the start. One is to pull the overhang directly below the crack. Another is to ascend slightly left of the crack, and once over the overhang, balance over right to the crack (easier).
Oct 8, 2011
Great route. Trying to figure out a good sequence was thought provoking. The G rating was accurate enough here. I sewed this route up with gear every 5 or 6 feet. semi-pumpy also, with subtle resting positions.
Nov 15, 2011
Stellar route! For the well protected version, traverse way left on the ledge after the crux, like 15 feet, until you find a nice pink tricam placement at chest level. Place that little sucker and then crank over the bulge at about 5.7. Doing it that way felt well protected. I'd give it a G. If you instead took the direct line up straight up the face after the crux then I feel that would be a spicy 5.10 move, albeit super fun.
|By Wade J.|
Nov 28, 2012
I've led and followed this climb and enjoyed it very much each time. The thin crack at the bottom is followed by fun and interesting moves above. Medium wires and small to medium cams protect this route really well and I would give it a G rating. Bring the #3 for up top. The first pine is a rotted lump of crap, continue past it between the rock to find more (live) trees above.
10 hours ago
This climb is well-protected from start to finish. There is no runout in the 5.8 bit at the end. And the cruxes at the bottom and top of the leaning crack have bomber bomber gear. Having taken a whipper at the upper crux I can tell you the fall is clean.