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Ozone Direct 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,788
Submitted By: Darin Lang on Jun 6, 2002
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Ozone Direct, through the first part of the crux.


This is a very good and nicely exposed alternate finish to Lost in Space, ascending the left margin of the left-facing, left-leaning dihedral which is obvious when you are at the third belay of Lost in Space (right after the 5.4 corner). From this belay, move left 15 feet past an ancient buttonhead to an incipient crack in the slab above. Mantle through the crux to a nice hand jam under the dihedral/roof, move left around the corner and then lieback and face climb all the way to the exit slabs. Alternately, you can take a 5.8 crack to exit from the dihedral about 2/3 of the way up. This is a long pitch.


To get to this route, you need to climb the first 3 pitches of Lost in Space. The rack for Lost in Space will suffice, although you should make sure you bring some small wires.

Photos of Ozone Direct Slideshow Add Photo
After scary mantle #1 on Ozone Direct.
After scary mantle #1 on Ozone Direct.
Darin Lang getting good jams under the roof on the Ozone variation to Lost in Space.
Darin Lang getting good jams under the roof on the...
Darin Lang at the beginning of the Ozone variation to Lost in Space.
Darin Lang at the beginning of the Ozone variation...
Just stoked about the prior moves and the easy terrain ahead!
Just stoked about the prior moves and the easy ter...
Darin Lang near the end of the roof on the Ozone variation to Lost in Space.
Darin Lang near the end of the roof on the Ozone v...
... and jug!
... and jug!
Comments on Ozone Direct Add Comment
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By Darin Lang
Jun 12, 2002

It's sad to think that I might not have that particular view again for a very long time, if ever. By the time those trees grow back, I'll probably need a belay to make it up the wheelchair ramp on the front of my house.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Apr 5, 2006

Did this route yesterday and it's great. Classic Platte slab to a nice easy corner. The Crux comes low .10b on the finger seam and eases off to .7 as soon as you pull around the corner. Beautiful

By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Mar 8, 2008

I got humbled today on this variation, that seam is a trip.
Took my first lead fall on gear today, learned some things about swinging falls.

I got a small nut in just before the seam petered out and didn't think I could make my way up straight to the roof. I saw a slopping ledge that ran across the face 5-10 feet below the roof, so I tried to hand traverse out to see if I could mantle the ledge and reach the roof. Only a couple minute crimps were on the ledge and basically no feet. I fought a good fight trying to mantle or do anything to not peel off. I was above my last small nut and about 5-10 feet off to the left. Well, I popped off and took the swing plus about a 10-15 footer, bruised my heel really badly and due to the swing rolled and beat my other ankle pretty good. My partner caught me right before I hit the ledge upside down. On the descent, I rolled it again and it felt really close to broken. Don't do that!

Any advice on how to do it the right way? Besided the obvious hint to just keep going straight up.

By Cody Cook
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 27, 2008

You got the answer right already. The best way is straight up. I did this yesterday, and actually took a lead fall off the small nut that places well right below the crux mantle. Once you've made the mantle, the final move is to step on the sloping rail that you were using for hands. That rail will be your feet as you traverse left with the roof. The crack under the roof provides ample placements as you move along.

I agree that the crux is the highstep/mantle in the finger crack, but I thought the move to turn the roof and start heading up the dihedral was only slightly easier, with a swing to follow if one comes off. One key - there is a Thank God jug right after the dicey move that completes the turn and opens up easier ground.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Dec 20, 2009

Did this today and essentially did what Jason did, but luckily I had pro over my head and didn't fall.... Felt about 10b that way, the problem is your last pro is far away, to the right and below. I'm a chicken, so I sunk a #1 BD micronut in the seam (bomber), stood on a sling and could place in the roof above. Then I lowered back down and did the move on top rope. Next time I'm going to lead it straight up, but this an easy option if that feels hairy.