Smallish holds from the ground past the first bolt over the initial bulge are the route's crux. After that the climbing is easier but the bolt spacing gets your attention near the finish.
The 11a climbing done way early in the route. A decent route for breaking into the 11s.
The route starts in black rock with a small bulge about eight feet up. This is the first route to the right of Scurvy Dog --about 20 feet away.
6 bolts to stainless steel clip anchors.
Blowing the second clip would suck...bad!
You have to want the 1st bolt!
A bit run-out up high
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 2, 2007
To me this is probably one of the worst routes at El Rito. Difficult un-fun start leads to much easier climbing, and run-outs on poor chossy rock. Somewhere between a bomb and one star.
From: Morrison, CO
Jul 9, 2007
I agree, this route is pretty bad. Its a shame the rock here isn't better shaped, since its one of the tallest cliffs around.
|By Matt Price|
Sep 12, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c PG13
The route does have its problems. I was pretty freaked out leading it cause I thought I was going to deck trying to clip the second bolt. The top is fun & mellow, but is inconsistent w/ the bottom.