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Routes in Owl Rock - West
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Family Affair TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fledgling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Full Fledged T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Night Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Owl Roof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Snack Break T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Snack Break Direct S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Reid Dowdle, 1980-something |
| Page Views: | 842 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on May 1, 2007 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
A good climb with a good crux, but all of the good climbing is at the good crux. The rest of the route is lacking. Start from the ground, just a few feet left of a bush maybe 3 meters up. Climb past the bush and into a right-leaning crack. The rock is lichen-covered, but mostly solid and the grade is moderate. As you reach solid protection, place it on a long runner, as you are still moving up and right, but the route is about to traverse left under the roof. Continue on solid jams until the crack ends, and go out left a few meters to an obvious jam-crack and start into the roof on some under-clings and jams- get horizontal and pull into the roof and over it on some technical jams and an edge or two. Footwork is still key, although there is not apparently much for feet. (Hint: This *is* a crack climb, after all.)
After the roof you will arrive on a ledge. While it is possible to belay here, I found it more inviting to traverse left (run it out of suffer the drag) into a cleft, then go up a few ledges on the right side of the cleft and to the cliff-top to belay off of gear.
To descend, scramble down to the South and find some anchors. Rap to the West above Fledgeling and Fully Fledged.
After the roof you will arrive on a ledge. While it is possible to belay here, I found it more inviting to traverse left (run it out of suffer the drag) into a cleft, then go up a few ledges on the right side of the cleft and to the cliff-top to belay off of gear.
To descend, scramble down to the South and find some anchors. Rap to the West above Fledgeling and Fully Fledged.
Photos
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