Striking-looking rock with a classic mixed route in front and very hard sport route on overhanging side
Leave I-10 at exit 318 to Dragoon Rd. Take Dragoon Rd to a right turn on Cochise Stronghold Rd (south). From Cochise Rd take a left (west) onto Ironwood Rd. Where Ironwood starts to turn towards the south (at Forest Service sign), take a right northward towards Kerwin Canyon..Park at top of the hill above a ravine with a higher-clearance vehicle, or a bit further down if not so equipped.
Stem up to first bolt and clip before moving onto slab (under 5'8" may find this difficult). Slab moves to small tree above then traverse left to second bolt. Traverse further left to where wide right-leaning crack meets thinner left-leaning crack. Make a couple of moves up into left-leaning crack before heading straight up to chickenheads. Two more bolts are found higher up the face in areas short on slingable chickenheads....[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
By Ken Trout From: Golden, CO Dec 15, 2008 CONDITION REPORT
At the turn, from the East Stronghold Campground road onto the rocky road to Owl Rock, is a sign warning of africanized bees. We found 'em last week, rappeling Nightstalker.
After my rope (finally) pulled through the (inadequate) chains, it caught on a softball sized chickenhead ten feet below the anchor. I walked all the way to the fence, whipping the rope all over, to try and flip it off. Finally the chickenhead broke and the rope was saved. About the same time a noisy swarm appeared out of the easy crack, below the bolts on the steep twelve. We rappeled right over the nest, but they didn't get aggro until after pulling the rappel.
Some other climbers told us about bees bothering the belayer on Nightstalker. We've read that when one or two start bouncing off the forehead it's about to get ugly.
Too bad about the 5.12 being occupied, from careful rappel inspection it looked outstanding. Some wild holds, like Secret Sharer @ Hueco, maybe easier, but sunny!
For Nightstalker we be back, but with emergency protective gear. Outdoor Research has a nice, light, bug hat. Also, increasing the length of the rap chains would facillitate rapping directly down Nightstalker, farther from the bees.
By Zeb Rafaker From: MOAB Feb 13, 2012 CONDITION REPORT