Been researching a bit about this route as I would like to climb it either this year by mid September or wait till next summer. Seems that the route finding and exposure are the big factors on this climb and that the approach is the hardest part. Was hoping anyone who has done this could shed some light or share info or tips for this climb.
By Chris Owen Administrator From La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Jul 12, 2012
If you solo it you'll have to figure out a way down without the rappel, or bum a ride on someone's rope. Summer afternoon downpours may leave a coating of ice on the route if the temperature crashes. Try and get a reserved camp site as high up the mouton as you can. Good luck camping on the Lower Saddle.
Teton Rock Climbs - A Digital Guidebook is a good one... lots of good photos of the approach, climb and decent. www.tetonrockclimbs.com/ You could also camp at the lower saddle and be ready to go by 3:30am... then follow other climbers on the approach. Once you get to Wall Street the route finding is relatively easy.
If you end up on Wall Street while trying to do the O-S you are seriously off route.
There will be many people camping on the saddle, sign up for Petezolts caves and leave your non-climbing stuff there. route finding is easy,follow the crowds, belly roll has exposure, watch for faster partys, pretty much 4th class..