This route has some scrumptious chocolate rock and great climbing. Unfortunately, a short but challenging roof of rotten rock guards its upper treasures. The pitch above the chimney is the best 5.9 OW in Red Rock. Perhaps when the bolt ban is lifted we can find a more docile way to access this grand pitch. Still this route has great position and is a beautiful line.
Pitch 1 5.7 100ft
Move up the varied chimney to where the chimney opens up and a wedged boulder makes a nice stance. It may be beneficial to move the belay deep into the chimney for the next pitch.
Pitch 2 5.9 C1 120ft
Move back deep into the gaping chasm and then climb up the chimney placing a large cam as high as possible near the lip. Drop back down and out of the chimney. Do several awkward aid moves through the rotten roof. Continue up excellent rock another 60ft of 5.9 OW to just below a wide spot in the crack.
Pitch 3 5.9 190ft
Chimney up the edge of the cave opening. When it squeezes down, move up the beautiful OW crack to just below a small roof. Belay off of medium to small cams and nuts.
Pitch 4 5.8 200ft
Continue up and left, taking a hand crack above (shares with Seppuku). Continue up the crack until you reach a good sized ledge with a slung boulder.
Pitch 5 5.9 80ft
Walk back from the face to another small white rock wall with a right angling crack on the face. Climb the angling crack and continue up it as it turns vertical. Belay on ledge.
Pitch 6 4th class 100ft
Continue to make your way up and generally rightward to the top.
Hike up Oak Creek past solar slab and Black Orpheus. Pass the blood wall on your left. Once past the blood wall start looking for a 4th class access out of the creek bed. You should see a large deep dihedral up and to the left as you head up out of the creek bed. Move up the slabs generally heading leftward until you get to the base of the wall above. Traverse this wall to the left (eastward) until you see a large red wall with two prominent crack lines in it. The right wide chimney system is your climb.
From the summit ridge walk right, going down slabs keeping near the lip of the cliff on the right. Follow cairns down a canyon (generally staying high). This canyon will eventually empty into Oak Creek canyon proper.
Another option is to skip the last two pitches and do 3 double rope rappels down seppuku's fixed anchors. Bring extra webbing as you may need to replace them.
A usual rack of double to #6 camalot with maybe triples in the 3-4 inch range. Adjustable daisies for the aid section. All anchors are natural.
DeAngelo starts up cool huecos on the first pitch.
After chimneying out of the cave on P3, you get th...
Larry nears first pitch belay. The ominous roof c...
Pitch 3 starts with an unprotected chimney out of ...
An intensive gaze before committing to the darksid...
Pitch 5 starts up a right-slanting crack.
Looking up at the big roof on pitch 2. You can ch...
Some awkward aid moves give access to the outside ...
Karsten tried to free climb the offwidth roof...
Higher in the opening chimney of pitch 3. In anot...
The view from inside the roof/chimney on pitch 2.
Pitch 4: a reprieve from the burly cracks...
Soon the chimney squeezes down...
High on pitch 5-- practically home free.
|By Larry DeAngelo|
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 15, 2008
Good route. The aid roof on pitch two has secure placements, but they are strenuous and awkward. Even cleaning has some challenges, because the leader has undoubtedly walked the big cams. The crack itself is very solid, but there is some friable rock at the edge, so the belayer should choose a protected position.
|By Matt Kuehl|
From: the desert
May 6, 2014
The pitch two roof can be freed at 5.10. It might feel harder depending on your body size and ability to negotiate wide cracks, but the climbing is all there. Some soft rock exists but the crack is solid and takes good gear. Fun route gentlemen!
From: Sacramento, CA
May 7, 2014
Awesome to hear you got on this Matt and it sound like you guys got it to go free at 5.10 too. Double rainbows awesome.
This climb is another one of those hidden Red Rock gems. If the approach was more modest it most certainly would be more popular. Matt's ascent is only the 2nd team I have heard that has done this route but should certainly not be the last. I have vivid memories of trying to free the roof over what seemed like so-so gear while Larry gave encouragement . . .and a hip belay.