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This route has some scrumptious chocolate rock and great climbing. Unfortunately, a short but challenging roof of rotten rock guards its upper treasures. The pitch above the chimney is the best 5.9 OW in Red Rock. Perhaps when the bolt ban is lifted we can find a more docile way to access this grand pitch. Still this route has great position and is a beautiful line.
Pitch 1 5.7 100ft
Move up the varied chimney to where the chimney opens up and a wedged boulder makes a nice stance. It may be beneficial to move the belay deep into the chimney for the next pitch.
Pitch 2 5.9 C1 120ft
Move back deep into the gaping chasm and then climb up the chimney placing a large cam as high as possible near the lip. Drop back down and out of the chimney. Do several awkward aid moves through the rotten roof. Continue up excellent rock another 60ft of 5.9 OW to just below a wide spot in the crack.
Pitch 3 5.9 190ft
Chimney up the edge of the cave opening. When it squeezes down, move up the beautiful OW crack to just below a small roof. Belay off of medium to small cams and nuts.
Pitch 4 5.8 200ft
Continue up and left, taking a hand crack above (shares with Seppuku). Continue up the crack until you reach a good sized ledge with a slung boulder.
Pitch 5 5.9 80ft
Walk back from the face to another small white rock wall with a right angling crack on the face. Climb the angling crack and continue up it as it turns vertical. Belay on ledge.
Pitch 6 4th class 100ft
Continue to make your way up and generally rightward to the top.
Hike up Oak Creek past solar slab and Black Orpheus. Pass the blood wall on your left. Once past the blood wall start looking for a 4th class access out of the creek bed. You should see a large deep dihedral up and to the left as you head up out of the creek bed. Move up the slabs generally heading leftward until you get to the base of the wall above. Traverse this wall to the left (eastward) until you see a large red wall with two prominent crack lines in it. The right wide chimney system is your climb.
From the summit ridge walk right, going down slabs keeping near the lip of the cliff on the right. Follow cairns down a canyon (generally staying high). This canyon will eventually empty into Oak Creek canyon proper.
Another option is to skip the last two pitches and do 3 double rope rappels down seppuku's fixed anchors. Bring extra webbing as you may need to replace them.
A usual rack of double to #6 camalot with maybe triples in the 3-4 inch range. Adjustable daisies for the aid section. All anchors are natural.
DeAngelo starts up cool huecos on the first pitch.
Larry nears first pitch belay. The ominous roof c...
An intensive gaze before committing to the darksid...
Looking up at the big roof on pitch 2. You can ch...
Karsten tried to free climb the offwidth roof...
The view from inside the roof/chimney on pitch 2.
Soon the chimney squeezes down...
Some awkward aid moves give access to the outside ...
Pitch 3 starts with an unprotected chimney out of ...
Higher in the opening chimney of pitch 3. In anot...
After chimneying out of the cave on P3, you get th...
Pitch 4: a reprieve from the burly cracks...
Pitch 5 starts up a right-slanting crack.
High on pitch 5-- practically home free.
|By Larry DeAngelo|
May 15, 2008
Good route. The aid roof on pitch two has secure placements, but they are strenuous and awkward. Even cleaning has some challenges, because the leader has undoubtedly walked the big cams. The crack itself is very solid, but there is some friable rock at the edge, so the belayer should choose a protected position.