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Ovine Seduction 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Artz, Andrew Barry (1985)
Page Views: 386
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 11, 2007
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Description 

Start in wide pod to reach a finger crack to an overhang. Pull the overhang and gain a stance. Place some gear and do a 10-15 ft. traverse to the right to gain the base of another crack system (good hands, poor feet). Follow the crack system up to the top. There are some sections of great finger crack climbing with some challenging moves. The rock at the very top is a little fractured, use caution. The last 20 ft does not protect as well as the rest of the route, but it's adequate and you are on great holds at this point. Great climbing, this route could benefit from more traffic as there are some flaky sections.


Location 

Obvious crack system to the right of supersymmetry.


Protection 

Mostly small cams (1" or less). A set of nuts is also helpful plus a few few larger pieces up to 3". No anchors at the top(11/07). The shuts for How Hard is That Thang can be used to rappel.



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By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Dec 5, 2011

I broke it into two shorter pitches to avoid potentially horrendous rope drag. Good jams on overhanging rock to a rest. Then stick the traverse to the ledge. No gear for the second through the traverse. Nice belay stance in the corner after the traverse. Good, non-obvious climbing to the top.