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|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10a [details]|
|FA: ||P1: Patrick Purcell & Don Mellor P2-P3 Don Mellor, Bill Dodd, & Jeff Edwards|
|Submitted By: ||Greg Kuchyt on Nov 18, 2009|
Dennis on the final pitch of "Overture". Photo, C...
General: Lawyer and Haas write that Overture is "a masterpiece of route finding" and no description could be better. Pitch 3 offers a mentally demanding and committing exposed line that will not disappoint. Pitch 1 can be avoided by linking the first pitch of Prelude with Pitches 2 and 3, thus maintaining the 5.8 grade.
Pitch 1 (5.10a):An unprotected boulder problem start leads to a short, shallow, and thin left-facing corner with a bolt at the end of the corner. At the top of the corner, exit working up and left to another bolt. From the second bolt, climb up on easier (5.8ish), albeit unprotected, terrain to a two-bolt anchor (shared with Prelude).
Pitch 2 (5.6): From the belay, work left to the large, low-angle, left-facing corner. Climb the corner to where it meets a short vertical step and work left to the obvious crack. An uncharacteristically hard move gains the low-angle rock above. Continue up, trending left, past another vertical step to a large ledge to build a gear anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.8): From the ledge, drop down to the climber's left (consider protecting the second here with a #00 TCU size micro-cam) and traverse over to a lone bolt on the low-angle face to the right of the arete. Make a committing move up on the arete until you can see a left-rising ramp appear. Make a highly exposed, highly committing move around the arete and onto the ramp (good protection) to gain the small corner formed by the ramp. Climb the ramp to gain a second, much welcomed, bolt. Move left from the bolt, into the prominent corner. Continue to the top, on easier terrain to build a gear anchor.
Note: On pitch 1, it is possible to escape climber's right into the first pitch of Prelude at the second bolt and above the second bolt after a short unprotected section (the latter being a good way to tame the stretch between protection after the second bolt).
Start: The approach through the talus brings you roughly to the main corner for Hesitation. Approach as for Hesitation, but follow the wall to climber's right until you come to an obvious rockfall runout. You should see an obvious, large rock fall scar with a "zig-zag" roof up to the right of the climb. This route shares its start with Prelude.
Descent: See the Upper Washbowl Cliff page for descent information for the cliff.
A single set from #00 Metolius TCU size to hand-size pieces. Doubles in the TCU sizes might not be the worst thing for Pitch 3. Stoppers.
Pitch 1: 2 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
Pitch 3: 2 bolts
|By Greg Kuchyt|
Nov 18, 2009
I tried to separate opinion from fact in the route description, so here is my opinion.
Pitch 3 is heady and has a high deal of exposure. Being solid at the grade (same goes for your second) is probably advisable. The gear is solid, but care should be taken to think about protecting the second in various spots. There is potential for everyone to go for a bit of a ride if one were to pitch at key moments on the climb without gear. With all that said, enjoy the wild experience and exposure this great route affords.
|By Matt Glue|
From: Albany, NY
Aug 8, 2011
It's been a couple of years since I followed this. I have yet to return to lead it but Greg is right. I've never felt more exposed in my life. High E at the Gunks doesn't even come close. Be ready for a thrill, and bring your prusiks!
From: Lebanon, NH
Oct 10, 2011
dont be intimidated by the other posts. this route is of moderate exposure and the scarry(?) dihedral stepover can be avoided by climbing higher on the arete (also easier). If you are a well experienced 5.8 climber and comfortable relying on microcams, then you will find this route to be very fun. I think the 5.10 1st pitch is mostly a slab pitch, and the crack to the right is much more rewarding and esthetic. the 2nd pitch should be rated a 5.7, and the third pitch atleast a 5.8+ or .9. it offers a variety of challenging, atypical, but awesome climbing moves. highly recommended.
|By Greg Kuchyt|
2 days ago
Pitches 1 & 2 of Flashdance make for a really good approach to the Overture ramp. This provides a more technical/harder approach for those looking for a fuller climbing experience. I highly recommend it as the way to approach pitch 3 of Overture.