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East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birth Simulator T 
Chambered Nautilus S 
Coral Bells Arete T 
Daily Diatribe T 
Deltoid Force T 
Leftoverture T 
MEGA S 
Mega Worthy T 
Moral Bells Arete S 
Oopsie T 
Overture T 
PTFE T 
Pump Up the Jam T 
Raspberry Ripple T 
Strong Persuader T 
Sweet and Low S 
Teflon Technique T 
Touch of Teflon T 
Worthy Whoopsie S 

Overture 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass 1987
Page Views: 667
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

This climbs a right facing corner 30 feet before the obvious arete "Coral Bells Arete". When it reaches the right trending crack/overhang, it follows this until it ends, and then continues straight up the face.

Protection 

Bring your gear as no fixed gear. The piton that Ruckman says is there, isn't.


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By Nathan Fisher
Jun 6, 2006

Took a look at this route again, for a lead attempt. There is some serious fall potential on the crux move, because of the missing piton. About a 20-30 foot pendulum into a dihedral and you still may deck. I would feel "X" is more accurate at this point.
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 13, 2006

A 2 bolt anchor has been added to this route. Shared with it's 2 neighbors. Also, the missing pin has been fixed with a bolt, after consulting with Gordon Douglas. It is still a runout route, just not a death route. Watch the dihedral swing.
By Dean Raynes
Sep 10, 2010

Climbed this one on TR today. This is a fun route that just needs some more love. I want to go back and get it on lead. Beware there is a loose rock before the bolt.
By Gabriel Tallent
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 28, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

A bolt has been added on the rightward traverse up the feature. You climb past that bolt a ways, traversing upwards with fantastic underclinging/smearing technical moves, then pull up over the feature and go several more moves before (I found) gear. All in all I think––maybe five or six unprotected, technical crux moves. I wish the whole climb went on that way, but then it dissolves into nearly the same broken face climbing as Raspberry Ripple. This thing is well worth doing if you feel confident on 5.10. Not a gym climb for sure.

Definitely not X, and while it doesn't feel warm and fuzzy, probably not even R.