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Oversticking a friend's cam
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By Ian Stewart
Apr 27, 2012

For me it would really depend on the situation. If my partner is clearly at fault I would kinda hope that they offer to replace it, but I probably wouldn't make a big deal about it either. And if they do offer to replace it, again my answer would depend on who it is...if it's a good friend and dirt-poor student that's already living off Ramen noodles I'd tell them in a heartbeat to forget it. If it's somebody who's reasonably well off I might offer to split it, and if it's somebody that tosses around bills the same way I treat spare pennies, I'd probably just take their offer.

It does remind me of a similar situation that happened to me a few months back, actually. Our company had some people visiting from another office during the winter, and we decided to go snowshoeing up in RMNP. They didn't bring warm clothes, so I lent a guy one of my jackets. It was really windy when we got up to one of the lakes, and he ended up getting blown over and splitting his head open on the ice, getting blood all over my jacket. I would have never expected him to replace my jacket or anything, but I did kind of expect him to be apologetic, and maybe even offer to have it dry cleaned or something (as I would have done). Instead he said absolutely nothing, and three days later once he left town I got an email from somebody else in my office saying "XYZ left your jacket in my office". Not a single word or even a thanks. The real kicker for me is that the guy is WELL above my pay grade...the kind of guy that could go buy an airplane if he wanted...oh well.


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By Ian Stewart
Apr 27, 2012

Oh yeah, one more thing...it's not always the person placing the gear that gets it stuck. Sometimes the cleaner might not be the most careful/observant and move the piece in a way that makes the situation worse.


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By Christian
From Casa do Cacete
Apr 27, 2012
Ooops...

Ian Stewart wrote:
For me it would really depend on the situation. If my partner is clearly at fault I would kinda hope that they offer to replace it, but I probably wouldn't make a big deal about it either. And if they do offer to replace it, again my answer would depend on who it is...if it's a good friend and dirt-poor student that's already living off Ramen noodles I'd tell them in a heartbeat to forget it. If it's somebody who's reasonably well off I might offer to split it, and if it's somebody that tosses around bills the same way I treat spare pennies, I'd probably just take their offer. It does remind me of a similar situation that happened to me a few months back, actually. Our company had some people visiting from another office during the winter, and we decided to go snowshoeing up in RMNP. They didn't bring warm clothes, so I lent a guy one of my jackets. It was really windy when we got up to one of the lakes, and he ended up getting blown over and splitting his head open on the ice, getting blood all over my jacket. I would have never expected him to replace my jacket or anything, but I did kind of expect him to be apologetic, and maybe even offer to have it dry cleaned or something (as I would have done). Instead he said absolutely nothing, and three days later once he left town I got an email from somebody else in my office saying "XYZ left your jacket in my office". Not a single word or even a thanks. The real kicker for me is that the guy is WELL above my pay grade...the kind of guy that could go buy an airplane if he wanted...oh well.


The guy was probably just in shock from being temporarily demoted to non-master-of-the-universe status (well, in his own mind anyway)...Give him a break, poor guy.


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By Benjamin F
From Arcata, CA
Apr 27, 2012
Topping out, first time doing Juicifer without any hangs, November 2011

ive never understood these sorts of issues... if you're going to have a meltdown every time a crack eats a piece, trad climbing may not be your cup of tea.

gear isnt cheap, that's something you need to really consider before buying a rack and plugging away. you WILL lose gear, no matter how careful you are...its inevitable.

sometimes you get lucky and gear finds you on a route, gotta love the booty. you can also consider buying some cams used if cost is really that much of an issue.

if its the principle and not the cash that's bugging you, i would advise only climbing with partners who you know will replace gear. if you're good enough friends and climb enough together, it always evens out in my experience. same with beer or paying for meals...it all evens out.

most the time when i lose a piece, the fun i had from a full day on the rock WAAAAAY outweighs the grief, and i go to sleep just fine that night


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By Christian
From Casa do Cacete
Apr 27, 2012
Ooops...

That's right, you need to be able to improvisate depending on the situation...wait, improvise... wait???..f*cking Bear Grylls


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