Oversticking a friend's cam

I wondered what the etiquette is when you overstick a friend's cam and neither of you are able to get it out? I've only been climbing trad for about 6 months and up until last week I nor any of my partners have lost any gear. That was until a buddy overstuck one of my C4's last weekend. He was pissed and we both worked on it but were unable to get it out. I never said anything to him about replacing it, and he hasn't made any comments that would leave me to believe that he will. I don't know if he even should. I just don't know what the standard practice is. In any event, thanks for any comments.

I'm always extremely hesitant taking out people new to plugging gear. If he is really a friend he would definitely replace it. I would pursue it.

I've only been climbing for a couple of months so I don't know much about the standard etiquette, but I would feel compelled to replace my buddie's cam if I were at fault for placing it poorly... for whatever a noob's opinion is worth.

I think you share responsibility. You allowed him to use your cams (assuming he would place them correctly). When you both try to retrieve it, but can't, split the cost. I think if someone drops a cam and loses it (multipitch), then the person who drops it should pay for it. I'm sure some people will say he got it stuck so he should pay for it, but this is my take on it.

Leading on your own rack helps prevent this ethical question. You place your own cam and it doesn't come out - your loss (assuming your partner knows how to get a cam out!)

split the cost of the cam

+1

Josh Kornish wrote:I'm always extremely hesitant taking out people new to plugging gear. If he is really a friend he would definitely replace it. I would pursue it.

That's a good point, and I'm not disagreeing with you however in this case, my buddy has 25+ years of climbing experience and has been guiding professionally for the last 15 or so. I on the other hand have only been climbing about 2 years. In any case he's a great guy and friend, and I mostly just posted this out of curiosity.

Technically, he should replace it. In the real world though, if he hasn't volunteered, you're better off asking him to pitch in half.

my opinion- if he put it in and you couldnt get it out its on you 100%, if you put it in and he couldnt get it out its on you again.

Either way I probably would still be there trying to get it while making him belay or I would go back in the AM with 2 tools and get it.

U place it... U buy it nuff said!

he placed it and got it stuck? ... he replaces it ...

its yr gear, and yr nice enough to take him out on it ...

if you dont agree with it ... dont climb with me ... any gear you drop, get stuck yourself, or wreck because you fell on it ... youre replacing it

Agreed with u place u buy! Btw what's up with all the n00bs???? Its OVERCAMMING!!

Salty dog let the newjack be responsible. At least a condolence beer should be offered. Kinda poor taste to say nothing.

johnL wrote: You sound like a pleasure to be around.

and you sound like someone who runs away from taking responsibility for using other people's gear ;)

guess you dont replace stuff you break, get stuck yourself or drop on multi that aint yours ...

bearbreeder wrote: and you sound like someone who runs away from taking responsibility for using other people's gear ;) guess you dont replace stuff you break, get stuck yourself or drop on multi that aint yours ...

Sport climbers...yeah yeah yeah...btw just dropped a thou on cams!!! Felt freakin good!

bearbreeder wrote:he placed it and got it stuck? ... he replaces it ... its yr gear, and yr nice enough to take him out on it ... if you dont agree with it ... dont climb with me ... any gear you drop, get stuck yourself, or wreck because you fell on it ... youre replacing it

If your climbing partner destroys your TCU are you going to make him replace it and then return the broken unit to MEC?

Ray Pinpillage wrote: If your climbing partner destroys your TCU are you going to make him replace it and then return the broken unit to MEC?

not all my cams were bought at mec mista ray ;) ... if someone destroys my non mec link cam i would charge em the price to send it to OP if OP were to cover it ... if they didnt then theyd buy me a cam

any responsible partner would offer to replace something they wreck if its their fault

or are you one of those people who dont replace gear they lose or wreck ...

johnL wrote: In 17 years of climbing, guess how many times this has come up? Maybe I should have rephrased my response to say "only climb with competent solid people". A girl who I'd had sex with a couple times that day already got one of my #1's stuck last year. She begged me to let her replace it. How do you think I answered? A friend (who was not a romantic partner) got a bike of mine stolen once because she left it unlocked. When she offered to replace it, again same answer. If climbing is about nuts and bolts and the finances to pay for them, you're not really seeing the forest for the trees or whatever. Sounds lonely and bitter to me but what do I know, I'm typing this in the dark and drinking alone.

last week one of my partners dropped a biner into the forest ... id like to think hes competent with over 30 years climbing including ascents of waddington and being a past club president ... he gave me the money right away ...

climb enough multi and youll lose stuff eventually ... no one is perfect ... its whether they accept responsibility for their actions that matter

bearbreeder wrote: not all my cams were bought at mec mista ray ;) ... if someone destroys my non mec link cam i would charge em the price to send it to OP if OP were to cover it ... if they didnt then theyd buy me a cam any responsible partner would offer to replace something they wreck if its their fault or are you one of those people who dont replace gear they lose or wreck ...

John is right, you sound miserable to climb with.

Ray Pinpillage wrote: John is right, you sound miserable to climb with.

and you sound like an azz to climb with ... not that i ever have or ever will climb with you ... but hey since your saying it without climbing with the person ;)

Anytime I jack up something that belongs to a buddy it's not even a question of me replacing it. I just do.

BUT most likley your bro is so new he dosn't even know there is protocol about stuff like that.