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North/West side
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Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Crack T 
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females S 
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Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Cameron Burns and Paul Fehlau, 1990
Page Views: 580
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Aug 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

The crux is off the deck on thin crimps up an overhang to some nice rounded pockets on a vertical face/arete section to a sweet exit. If you step over left at the bottom (crux), the route probably goes at 5.10b.

Location 

This is the first bolted line to the right of Overlard.

Protection 

4 bolts and 2 fixed slings to a 2 bolt chained anchor.


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By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 30, 2007

Someone has removed and not replaced the fixed slings, so be careful because it is now an R rated lead.
By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Apr 18, 2008

Just looking through my notes: The bolts for this were placed on lead...I'd returned to NM after doing the California trad thing....(no flipping idea about the tie offs, though). Cam
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Feb 22, 2009

Tried this one for the first time today. I remember seeing fixed slings - or rather a fixed sling - at one point, but they were gone today. Didn't feel all that uncomfortable though - the second bolt is a bit high and if you were to peel while clipping you'd deck. Other than that, it's 4 moderately spaced bolts, which means bigger air if you catch it, but the falls are clean.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 19, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The 2 slings are currently fixed on this climb (5/09); with these in place, it's very well-protected.
Update 2/2014: These slings are a bit ratty; and the lower one appears partially torn and I personally wouldn't want to fully trust it as ground fall is a possibility if it were to fail. Maybe they're ok, but it is probably best if they're replaced. As Jason mentions above, a climber relatively solid at the grade might feel okay with the situation.