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Overpass 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type: Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 2,833
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Jun 24, 2001
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BETA PHOTO

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Description 

I've always thought sport climbing is bouldering on a rope. This route hits home with that sentiment. Clip the first bolt, press your way on to the first shelf. Clip the 2nd bolt carefully. Haul yourself up the fun arete. After the 3rd clip, it's a romp up the slab to the anchor which is shared with three other routes. Be careful with your rope on descent.


Protection 

8 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Can be top roped via Cracker Jack or Bypass with some rope drag.


Location 

To the right of Bypass. This is the third bolted line from the left on this section of rock.



Photos of Overpass Slideshow Add Photo
Bruce Vollmer on the difficult slab start.
Bruce Vollmer on the difficult slab start.
Working up to the second bolt.
Working up to the second bolt.
Lower view of Bypass route ^1 and Overpass route ^2
BETA PHOTO: Lower view of Bypass route ^1 and Overpass route ^...
Using the crucial head-jam technique to clip the second bolt.
Using the crucial head-jam technique to clip the s...
Bruce Vollmer eyeing the crux of Overpass.
Bruce Vollmer eyeing the crux of Overpass.
Comments on Overpass Add Comment
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By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Feb 3, 2002

The "business" of this route is right at the first bolt. Don't get psycked out by the big roof overhead; it pulls on jugs. I thought I was going to wipe the whole side of my face off if I blew the mantle on the casual looking step-over at the slab overlap at the start. A week later one of my friends did blow it and looked like he'd had to lay down a 'cyle in shorts!

By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Feb 17, 2002

Alan , your bolting is fine. I agree than any more down low would add way to much drag and they would have to be ridiculously close together. I'd rather risk a little skin vs. a "Sport Park" sanitized solution! My comments were directed to the "Gym Rats" who haven't honed there slab skills yet.

By TBD
May 14, 2002

I agree that the roof pull is harder than the opening slab moves. Feet were tricky, I used some heel hooks. One note of caution, if you whip at the second bolt, the biner attached to the bolt could get loaded over an edge. I backed up my draw with a sling through the bolt hanger. Perhaps I'm just paranoid...

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 6, 2003

This route can be done quite safely, if there's concern, by clipping the bolt on the route to the left before making Overpass's second clip. Be certain to downclimb and unclip the bolt on the left side before tackling the roof. A Neutrino facing the right direction can help offset some of the spooky issues a normal biner might have in opening on the rock at the second clip. JM

By Pierre Sarnow
Nov 2, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

The second bolt is easily clipped at the nose of the arete just after the mantle. The arete has a huge hold underneath. Stand and you can reach the second bolt nicely.