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North/West side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chocolate Thunder 
Citizen of Time 
Crisis In Utopia 
D'Antonio Approach 
Dangle Your Participle 
Huecos Rancheros 
Just Say No To Jugs 
Just Say Yes To Fingercrack 
Overlard (aka Foops) 
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Crack 
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females 
Primal Scream 
Putterman Gully Jump 
Route 7 
Route 8 
Sandy Pocket Crack 
Toprope face (unknown) 
Unknown (crack left of Overlord) 
Unknown (crack right of Overlard) 
Vanilla Crack 
View with a Room 


YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Foley, Copelin, Wirtz
Page Views: 323
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Aug 29, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Start on the lefthand side of the slab, crank out over the roof which is the crux, then continue up the left arete/face to a shared exit and anchors with Overlard.


This is the 2nd bolted route you come to if coming from the south side. It is the left side of the obvious block roof.


4 bolts to a 2 bolt chained anchor.

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By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Mar 8, 2009

Maybe I was just in a bad mood or something, but I truely hated this climb. It's an uninspiring one move wonder with badly placed bolts and sharp rock. The natural line (IMO) moves onto the left side of the arete at the roof, but this leaves dangerous fall potential on lead. Overlard is much better.

I originally gave this a bomb, but decided that it was a bit unfair, as the rock is of reasonable quality.