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Bucksnort Slab
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Overlooked 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Peter Holcombe & Luke Gosselin
Page Views: 1,222
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Oct 25, 2001

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Description 

It's the most left route on Bucksnort slab. Just right of the walk off. The start is on a bench bellow a water streak. There are four bolts on the first pitch; two can be seen easily from the base, the third is on a bulge mostly out of sight. Belay in a crack (nuts & med. Aliens).

P2 - Go up and right on sweet slab passing a bolt to a four foot step. Small gear (nuts & aliens) can protect this pull over. Then two more bolts on the face lead to the top of the rock w/ a good crack to belay in (1,2,3 Camalots). This can be done as one long pitch with a 60M. Rope. All the hard climbing is protected w/ small run outs in between. Walk off to the left.


Protection 

10-12 runners/QD's Nuts Small Aliens-#3 Camalot All Bolts 3/8"



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By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Apr 5, 2002

The first little pitch of this route is very enjoyable. As for the second little part, the gear that is mentioned is suspect, unless you go quite a bit left of the bolt and place a large cam under a big flake, which puts you way left of the suggested route. From here I pulled through the 'step' on a loose block (only feature on the step, easily spotted to the left). The bolts mentioned on the slab above, seem to be down to 1 and are plenty far above the step. If you fell from the step it would be a bad scene. Be careful if you are not very confident on 9+ climbing.

My suggestion. Do the first part of the route and walk off to the left... !pi