This route is on the left side of Poland Hill as the Rat Brain sits to the right. On that left side, a stack of 4 large features is split down the center by a slightly right-leaning thin hands crack that goes vertical then curves gracefuly to left leaning as it passes each of 3 horizontal cracks/bulges to reach a slot up top (5 feet long) and a slab on the left abover that. Climb this surprisingly good system to the top of the slab to a crappy fixed anchor.. Belay here with a back up on your gear.
To exit, top out back behind you (all of the way) and walk over toward the base of the rat brain, just below the climbs Fantasia and Kim.
This route is the left-most prominant crack system in the attached photo.
Good gear from 1.5-4, getting progressively larger on the way up. Perhaps take extra 2.5-3.5" pcs.
BETA PHOTO: Poland Hill - SE Side and The Rat Brain.
An unknown climber 'Overloads (5.9)' at Vedauvoo. ...
BETA PHOTO: Pics of the newish anchor to the climber's right a...
|By Sam Lowe|
Jul 9, 2004
The climbing was completely enjoyable; from the hand crack at the start to pulling the roof at the exit.
However, belaying from an anchor in the shallow horizontal to the left of the crack makes for a dangerous last move for the follower. Does anyone have any hints?
|By Tyler Smeenk|
From: Laramie, WY
Aug 20, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maybe the anchors have changed since the last post, we did not have any problems leading and TR'ing the route. Anyway, I was wondering what side (right/left) most people entered the last roof. I went left side in first when leading and felt like I was going to fall out. My buddy finished the lead and I TR'd it going right side in first, fealing much better. Just wondering if anybody had any thoughts.
|By Johan Grahnen|
From: Palo Alto, CA
May 4, 2008
Right side in felt fine to me -- decent feet. The sideways chimneying afterward was a hoot, too.