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Overhanging Layback 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 1946: Fritz Wiessner and Bill Shockley
Page Views: 3,540
Submitted By: bryan barnett on Nov 4, 2008  with updates from Kurtz and 1 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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P1 of Overhanging Layback

Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>

Description 

1. (100') Climb the corner to the overhang. Step right and then up and left - a tricky move. Continue left and up to small ledges below a face near an outside corner. The anchor is a clump of medium-size trees with rap slings, and a 60m rope will get you down from there.

2. (60') Climb left, exit the corner after just a few feet, and head up the face, past flakes (some may be hollow and loose), to an overhang. Climb through the overhang, then another overhang, and up right to a big ledge and tree belay.

From Kurtz: The missing flake under the final overhang may have made the overhang on P2 significantly harder (5.8ish). I'm 6' tall and it was a big reach to the hard-to-see bomber jug. It's a very committing (but fun) move now. I didn't see any easier way out.

P3. Another 40 ft. of easy, licheny 5.4 climbing gets you to the top.

From the top of P3, we walked right about 150 ft. to the park-like rapp tree above Snooky's Return(?). One 60m rope got us down in 2 rappels. We didn't find any closer rap stations (you can't walk left without climbing up even higher)

Location 

At the large right-facing corner uphill and right of the McCarthy Wall (Coexistence et al.).

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack. Rappel from tree - be careful to move your knot below the notch, as stuck ropes have happened.


Photos of Overhanging Layback Slideshow Add Photo
P2 - Large flake (3ft long) broke off below roof
BETA PHOTO: P2 - Large flake (3ft long) broke off below roof
First pitch...
BETA PHOTO: First pitch...
Ok view of 2nd pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Ok view of 2nd pitch.
P2 - broken-off flake below roof.
BETA PHOTO: P2 - broken-off flake below roof.

Comments on Overhanging Layback Add Comment
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By - - -
May 21, 2009

One better descent option to rap from the tree at the top of P2 to the bolts that are 25ft left of you when you're at the P1 belay. I'm not sure what route that is - something just right of co-ex.
By losbill
Sep 6, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Beware of the white flaky rock beneath the first overhang on pitch 2. Most of it flexes and wobbles when you pull or step on it which can't be avoided as you step up to the overhang. Go lightly. A large block off to the left is completely detached and just sitting on the block beneath it.
By Johan
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 22, 2012

I recently got a rope stuck on the rappel off of this route, at the notch right at the top lip. I noticed that a previous tick here on MP says the same happened to them. So: be mindful of your rope flossing that notch. It's definitely best to bring the knot down with you past the lip. Double 60m ropes will still get you down to the ground even if you bring the knot down past the lip in this way.
By Jon Booth
Oct 8, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Oct 5th, 2013: While my partner was coming up, a large flake (~3ft long) broke off, just below the roof on P2. It seemed like a highly used hold, as it was covered in chalk. I posted a couple of pictures for a better description.
By Daniel Israel
From: Montreal, Quebec
Mar 28, 2014

Yeah, a very nice route I thought. Kind of epic. And not too bad for the grade either.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
May 9, 2014

Lots of loose rock on P2. Tread lightly!
By Gunkiemike
Aug 19, 2014

There is now nothing left of the tree at 80 ft comprising the "optional belay" that the grey Dick mentions. There's a clump of medium-size trees w/ rap slings 20 ft higher, and a 60m rope will get you down from there.
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