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Overhanging Jugs
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Jun 14, 2014
Are there any routes on the front range that are just overhanging jugs for days, in the 5.10 or less range?

I really want to be upside down, but I'm not skilled enough for the overhanging crimps and slopers. But I love the feeling of being upside down. At the very least I have goal, but I'm looking for some immediate gratification.
Eliot Augusto
From Boulder, CO
Joined Dec 29, 2013
35 points
Jun 14, 2014
Post climb celebration drinks with a sweet line in...
Are you looking for sport or trad climbs? LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 21, 2012
190 points
Jun 14, 2014
It sounds like trad. Grover
Joined Jul 12, 2010
326 points
Jun 14, 2014
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
LawHous wrote:
Are you looking for sport or trad climbs?

I think the answer is pretty much "no" either way.
I think he's looking for Red River Gorge...
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,510 points
Jun 14, 2014
Heading up the best pitches of the route. Perfect ...
The Flatirons, Dinosaur Mountain to be more exact. Vertical to overhanging 5.7 to 5.10 aplenty. Eric Klammer
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 10, 2012
1,871 points
Jun 14, 2014
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
Eric Klammer wrote:
The Flatirons, Dinosaur Mountain to be more exact. Vertical to overhanging 5.7 to 5.10 aplenty.


The dude said:
"Are there any routes on the front range that are just overhanging jugs for days, ... I really want to be upside down..."

Which routes are you thinking of like that? I can't think of any such on Dino Mt.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,510 points
Jun 15, 2014
Thanks for the replies. I shall investigate.

I'll be in Nashville in a few weeks, maybe I could swing through RRG.

Oh and either sport or trad. But I prefer trad.
Eliot Augusto
From Boulder, CO
Joined Dec 29, 2013
35 points
Jun 15, 2014
Sounds like you should check out the Tennessee Wall Eric Chabot
From Thetford Ctr, VT
Joined Jul 16, 2011
85 points
Jun 15, 2014
Sounds like you need to go to Obed. Dave T
From Winston Salem
Joined Oct 3, 2007
6 points
Jun 15, 2014
Nashville? Sounds like good AC is what's needed. john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,265 points
Jun 15, 2014
not climbing
Breakfast in Bed steep with jugs for days. Only 5.8

Tony B wrote:
Which routes are you thinking of like that? I can't think of any such on Dino Mt.

Touch Monkey steep with jugs. Not 5.8, but feels like it.
Mark Roth
From Boulder
Joined Jan 4, 2008
12,684 points
Jun 15, 2014
Summit of Rainier.
Does this route fit your description?

mountainproject.com/v/10700314...
Mike Belu
From Indianapolis, IN
Joined Jun 3, 2012
136 points
Jun 15, 2014
Mike Belu wrote:
Does this route fit your description? mountainproject.com/v/10700314...


She could could have a no-hands no foot rest I'm sure.
Eliot Augusto
From Boulder, CO
Joined Dec 29, 2013
35 points
Jun 15, 2014
If you're in Nashville, Foster Falls (1.5 hr drive) will give you some decent overhangs.

But Obed/Clear Creek (as Dave T pointed out) is where the severe overhanging jugs are in TN. It's about a 2.5 hr drive and well worth it. The money climb here for overhanging jugs is in Stephen King's library in the South Clear Creek area.

Climb the softly graded and overprotected "Pet Cemetery". Take a long rest . . . and then start moving out "Rage".

Rage is a completely horizontal roof for about 25ft, massive jugs, bat hang rest, fixed draws, fun moves that goes 5.11 until you get close to the lip. This is where the 5.12 stuff comes in.

mountainproject.com/v/rage/106...

You may fall off into space, but you'll be grinning from ear to ear.
B-rad
Joined Sep 2, 2008
44 points
Jun 16, 2014
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
Eliot Augusto wrote:
Are there any routes on the front range that are just overhanging jugs for days, in the 5.10 or less range?


Mark Roth wrote:
Touch Monkey steep with jugs. Not 5.8, but feels like it.


Well, what's 4 letter grades, give or take a few? Your Mother, (W Face of the Bastille) is really steep too. It's 5.12c, but you know... whatever.

Seriously, Touch Monkey is 20' of steep. April Fools (11b/c) or the S Crack on the Maiden (11a) are steeper for longer... but still not 5.10.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,510 points
Administrator
Jun 16, 2014
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
basically none of these FR suggested climbs are really 'upside down' climbing though, but just off vertical climbing.

i'm drawing kind of a blank for steep, consistent, juggy climbing in this range. there are routes here and there that have short sections, but not a lot that are big pumping affairs.

the only one that really comes to mind is that steep 10d at the monkey house in clear creek.
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,043 points
Jun 16, 2014
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
Yeah - at sub 5.10, the best you can hope for is about a body length of roof or a brief steep (overhanging) section.
Danny Inman pulls up through the fun roof on Futil...
Danny Inman pulls up through the fun roof on Futile Laments on Eldo's Wind Tower. Done to the ledge, this is a 60M pitch. Photo by Tony Bubb, 3/08.
Stefanie Van Wychen pulls up through the upper roo...
Stefanie Van Wychen pulls up through the upper roof on Futile Laments on Eldo's Wind Tower, about 100 feet over the ground. Photo by Tony Bubb, 3/08.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,510 points
Jun 16, 2014
Futile Laments looks awesome. Thanks Tony B. Eliot Augusto
From Boulder, CO
Joined Dec 29, 2013
35 points
Jun 16, 2014
mountainproject.com/v/dad-spea... Clint Hager 1
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Oct 5, 2013
2 points
Jun 16, 2014
Bolton, VT
Visit the Gunks one time and you'll be very happy! Nick Votto
Joined Jul 27, 2008
276 points
Jun 17, 2014


Oh man. I'll have to buy a hanger just in case. That route looks awesome.
Eliot Augusto
From Boulder, CO
Joined Dec 29, 2013
35 points
Jun 17, 2014
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
Damn. Thought I was going to see some big boobs with the name steep overhanging jugs. Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
960 points
Jun 18, 2014
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
Greg D wrote:
Damn. Thought I was going to see some big boobs with the name steep overhanging jugs.


You're so immature.
Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
960 points


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