|Eagles Peak Area
I felt the crux was just getting onto the face/bowls. Start with the big undercling and a left foot drop knee to gain a key left hold, then it is straight up. Halfway up after a great side pull, look around for a great jug.
climbers left of overhanging crack. Climbs up obvious face with huge bowls.
Bolts on top, make sure to extend over the lip
|By dave wave|
Jul 11, 2013
Always helps if you lightly brush out the bottom huecos before you hit it...chossy rock, and there's usually some sand in them.
On another note- there's a few good variations of this route.
1) Follow huecos straight up on the arete(10+) (I'm 5'6", so i have to dyno into the first huecos...fun way to start it!
2) Follow huecos up the overhang till your reach the vertical face, then go diagnally right...finishing at the overhanging crack bolts(11a/b)
This would be a killer little sport route, but most likely your bottom bolt would end up in some pretty chossy rock.