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Overhang Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
2 Ways 2 Hell 
Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route 
Beer Barrel Buttress 
Beer Drinkers and Hell Raisers 
Beer Pong 
Chicken Dance 
Corniche 
Crack to Chimney 
Crack/Bulge 
Fabulous Flying Carrs Route, The 
Ground Doesn't Lie, The 
Half and Half 2 
Handle This Hard On! 
Hellbound II 
Hellraiser 
Here Today Gone Tomorrow 
Hippy School 
In Between the Lines 
Intuition 
Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pink Stain 
Mr. Peery Take A Bow 
Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut 
Mrs. Hen Places a Peck 
Natural Fact 
Off Line 
Pack 'o Bobs 
Plumber's Crack, The 
Routefinding 101 
Sidelines 
Smear Me A Beer 
This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim 
Toast & Jam? 
Top Rope Face 
Tora, Tora, Tora 
Toura Obscura 
War With A Rack 
What Line? 
Wholly Holey 

Overhang Area 


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Location: 39.76834, -105.21695 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
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You & This Area
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Ken Trout on one of his own, part 3.
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This area is right where the approach trail ends. As a result, it is probably now the most popular section along the cliffs. The name is misleading, because while many routes are slightly overhanging, there are no "radical overhangs" and there are also numerous less-than vertical climbs. A number of good 10s and 11s lie in wait here.


Getting There 

Ascend the trail from the parking lots. This is the area basically from near where the trail intersects the cliff band and continues left.


L->R: 

A. The Plumber's Crack, 10-, 1p, 60, gear.
B. Intuition, 7 R, 1p, 50', gear.
C. Teeter Totter Pillar aka Toast & Jam?, 7+, 1p, 50', gear (& bolts).
D. The Ground Doesn't Lie, 10+, 1p, bolts.
E. Top Rope Face, 10, 1p, TR.
F. Cracks, ?, 1p, gear.
G. Beer Barrel Buttress, 10+, 1p, 65', bolts.
H. Beer Pong, 9-, 1p, 65', gear.

I1. What Line?, 10-, 1p, 40', gear or TR.
I2. Sidelines, 8 or 10-, 1p, bolts.
J. Beer Drinkers & Hell Raisers, 8+, 1p, 45', gear.
K. In Between The Lines, 9-, 1p, 45', bolts.
L. Corniche, 7 or 8, 1p, 45', gear.
M. Off Line, 8, 1p, 50', bolts.
N. Crack/Bulge, 8+, 1p, 55', gear.
O. Hippy School, 8, 1p, 55', gear or TR.
P. Mr. Squirrel Places A Nut, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
Q1. Routefinding 101, 9, 1p, gear.
Q2. Tora, Tora, Tora, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.
R. Handle This Hard On, 12-, 1p, bolts.
S. Toura Obscura, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.
T. Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pink Stain, 9+, 1p, 60', gear.
U. Here Today, Gone Tomorrow, 9 or 11+, 1p, bolts.
V1. Mr. Peery Takes A Bow, 11-, 1p, bolts.
V2. Mrs. Hen Places A Peck, 11+, 1p, bolts. Gently overhanging face.
W. Chicken Dance, 12-, 1p, bolts. R of big hole near start.
X1. Hell Raiser, 9, 1p, 60', gear.
X2. Serious Play, 11 R, gear.
Y. 2 Ways 2 Hell, 9, 1p, bolts & gear.
Z. Half and Half 2, 7, 1p, bolts & gear.
AA. Smear Me A Beer, 11, 1p, bolts.
BB. Hellbound II, 9, 1p, 60', gear.
CC. This Ain't Naturita Pilgrim, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
DD. Natural Fact, 7, 1p, 60', gear.
EE. Fabulous Flying Carr's Route, 10- or 11-, 1p, bolts.
FF. Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route aka Sloping Forehead, 7+, 1p, bolts.
GG. Pack O' Bobs aka Ivory Tower, 8-, 1p, 50', bolts.
HH. Crack to Chimney, 7, 1p, 60', bolt & gear.
II. Wholly Holey, 8+, 1p, 60', bolts.
JJ. War With A Rack, 8, 1p, 60', gear.


38 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',7],['5.8',6],['5.9',11],['5.10',6],['5.11',5],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Overhang Area:
Corniche   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   
Off Line   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   
Crack/Bulge   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   
This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Hippy School   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 55'   
Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pink Stain   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Plumber's Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Fabulous Flying Carrs Route   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
Tora, Tora, Tora   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
Mrs. Hen Places a Peck   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Handle This Hard On!   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Chicken Dance   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in Overhang Area

Featured Route For Overhang Area
Deb on the interesting barndoor move.

Smear Me A Beer 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c  CO : Golden : ... : Overhang Area
15 feet left of the ever popular, This Ain't Naturita Pilgrim (5.9), is a small, discontinuous arete below a south-facing head wall. This is Smear Me A Beer and is another very worthy problem that sees far too little traffic for such a nice line. Solve the arete for 5.11b, this comes at you right away, and get established on the top of the arete. Climbing switches gears immediately. A nice entry move gains the face above for 25 feet of nice 5.10 edge climbing. Smear is another fine ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Overhang Area Slideshow Add Photo
Winch Hooks from Home Depot installed on Golden Cliffs.  See my comment below for details of what to buy if you want to help solve the problem of worn anchors.  The quick links and hooks can go on Fixe rings too.  Just clip in and lower.  Much thicker than "fixed" carabiners and easy to replace.
Winch Hooks from Home Depot installed on Golden Cl...
#1 shows the simple set-up that is bomber and easily replaced without removing the bolt.   <br /> <br />#2 shows the problem.  Sure a single rap hanger is cheaper, but what about the future?  Removing bolts weakens them.  I've broken several unscrewing them.  <br /> <br />#3 how anyone can fix a worn rap hanger.  The fatter, stronger, quick links in #1 are a tight fit.
#1 shows the simple set-up that is bomber an...
BETA PHOTO
Sun setting on the rocks.
Sun setting on the rocks.
A lot of new routes have gone in since 1992.  Green x means bolts that are new since then, on just the routes shown.
A lot of new routes have gone in since 1992. Gree...
Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
Signs of spring showing up.
Signs of spring showing up.
Comments on Overhang Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Schoep
Apr 18, 2005

Hey All, I've been trying to figure out the name and rating of a route up here. It is towards the left hand side of the Overhang Area. The first three bolts follow an open book with a finger crack in the back of it. The left face is quite smooth, but the right face has some small edges. It leads to an overhang with a handjam after which it heads to the left to one more bolt and some coldshuts. If anyone knows what this is, I would love the info. Thanks.

By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 19, 2005

Brian, the route you are describing I believe is an un-named 5.8.

By Buff Johnson
Aug 14, 2006

There's a natural line just climber's right of #46 (as noted in the beta pic -- #46=Offline). It takes good gear, I think 4-5 cams & a bolt to finish. A couple of balancy stem moves using some crack for good hands & fingers taking the overhangs more directly. Not too bad at all. The crux (I thought) is pulling the overhang to the right of the 2nd bolt located on Offline.

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 10, 2007

We've put winch hook anchors on over thirty routes up at the Golden Cliffs Preserve. Mostly on routes I'd bolted originally. Just clip the rope in and lower off. No need to risk rappel cleaning. When these hooks get worn, they are easy and safe to replace.

Here is what we used from Home Depot in Golden:

1/2" Quick Link, rated to 1498kg, used to attach hook to bolt hanger or existing rings, $4.17. The links don't get worn and won't need much future replacement.

3/4" X 4-1/4" Winch Hook, rated to 1,134kg, can easily be replaced in the future, $4.77.

By Mike Howard
Administrator
Dec 10, 2007

Ken,

I want to be the first to thank you for your effort and expense. Might just save a life and that deserves kudos. I have been looking for mussy hooks and the only site I found them on was Fish. Did you say you got them at Home Depot as well or just the quick links? Do you oppose the hook gates? A photo would be great of the set-up.

Thanks again,

Mike

Edit 1/18/08: Thanks for the HD info and the photo and the effort. Cheers Mike

By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Aug 19, 2010

Route R is Toura Obscura. It felt like a solid 5.9 relative to other GC routes. Not a bad route, but lots of bird crap didn't help.