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Morning Glory Wall
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YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Martin Grullich, 1987
Page Views: 2,214
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 24, 2006
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A great pitch that often gets used as a warm up for the 5.13s to the right on the Churning Buttress. It sees a lot of traffic, but with good reason. Typical Smith Rock crimps and pockets abound.

It's a fun route to jump on at the end of the day for one last burn on the way back to the car if nobody's on it.

The start is 15-20ft. to the right of the tree at the base of the Morning Glory wall, just around the corner from the Zebra/5 Gallon Buckets area.


8 bolts to a bolted anchor, or continue past another 5 bolts to a higher anchor.

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By Bryson Slothower
May 8, 2006

To lower off the second set of anchors you need a 70m rope.

By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Aug 3, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

The rating goes up considerably with the humidity and the temperature...

By Philip Scoles
From: bum fuck, Oregon
Oct 26, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

My favorite warm-up.

By Philip Scoles
From: bum fuck, Oregon
Dec 13, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Ian Cadwell just ripped off the loose flake right above the first anchors making the climb feel like 11c.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 15, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Did it to the first anchors and the crux felt pretty slippery and precarious, like I could easily blow off at any time. The locals look like they could do it blindfolded.

By ----
Dec 14, 2008

Similar to the other routes on the morning glory wall with extensions the crux comes immediately after the first set of anchors. A right heel maneuver can prove to be really usefel for making the first few moves after the anchors.

By Gabe Schwartz
Aug 26, 2013

I don't know if this is the best place for this, but the anchor biners for the 1st pitch are very worn, probably over half way through. The groove is smooth and I felt OK rapping off of it, but it seemed worth mentioning.