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Redgarden - Tower One
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Memory Lapse 
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Over the Shoulder Stuff 
Parting Shot 
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South Face of Tower One 
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Three Old Farts Young at Heart 
To RP or not to Be 
Untouchables, The 
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Yellow Spur, The 
Ytrid Deed, The 

Over the Shoulder Stuff 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Woodruff, Dane Hare, Chris Reveley, 1976
Page Views: 378
Submitted By: Steve Annecone on Jan 11, 2011
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Kat A starts to follow P1 of Over The Shoulder Stu...
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  • Description 

    This sustained and interesting climb makes one work a bit for the gear. The first pitch shares the start with the Yellow Spur direct start, and also shares a portion (the leaning slot) with One and a Half Hours of Power. The second pitch also merges with One and a Half Hours of Power. While the rock is generally clean, there are a couple of loose sections to be negotiated on the 1st pitch. Still, the overall quality is pretty good, and it's fairly challenging at the grade. A worthy adventure, especially if you've done most of the other routes in the neighborhood.


    Location 

    This starts with the Yellow Spur direct start just left of the regular Yellow Spur start. Where the YS takes a hard right, go left into the left-facing corner. Belay just above the roof after the 1st pitch, and take the second pitch all the way to "Almost Red Ledge". Walk off left (north) to the West Chimney rappels, two single rope raps will get you to the ground.


    Protection 

    Bring the usual small cams, nuts, and RPs, plus lots of long slings. No bolts anywhere, so build natural anchors at the end of each pitch.



    Photos of Over the Shoulder Stuff Slideshow Add Photo
    Kat A looks up into the steep center section while following 'Over the Sholder Stuff (5.10)' in Eldo. Photo by Tony B. 3/2012.
    Kat A looks up into the steep center section while...
    In case you are not pumped... P1 finishes with some balance oriented moves on smaller holds to the belay.  Kat A negotiated the final moves, 3/2012.
    In case you are not pumped... P1 finishes with som...
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