Type: | Trad, Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Ed Webster, Bryan Becker, Leonard Coyne |
Page Views: | 2,204 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Phil Lauffen on Jun 28, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal nesting closures
Details
Per Bret Tennis:
As of 3/29/23: the seasonal raptor closures are the same as in 2022 and recent years.
We have expanded the climbing closure for North Gateway Rock inside the Garden of the Gods. We expect our prairie falcons to fledge soon. Closures will be lifted once the raptors are safely flying and providing for themselves (or they leave the area).
Thank you,
Bret Tennis
Parks Operations Administrator
Garden of the Gods
Office: 719-219-0108
Bret.tennis@coloradosprings.gov
Old info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
As of 3/29/23: the seasonal raptor closures are the same as in 2022 and recent years.
We have expanded the climbing closure for North Gateway Rock inside the Garden of the Gods. We expect our prairie falcons to fledge soon. Closures will be lifted once the raptors are safely flying and providing for themselves (or they leave the area).
Thank you,
Bret Tennis
Parks Operations Administrator
Garden of the Gods
Office: 719-219-0108
Bret.tennis@coloradosprings.gov
Old info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - all lifted as of 10/20/23
Details
Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
Over the Rainbow has a beautiful position, traversing over the top of the monstrous roof on the west face of North Gateway Rock, then firing straight up the awesome looking face above before reaching the top of that inspiring red ridge. The description in D'Antonio's book says the route offers "great position and good climbing on somewhat loose rock."
Change the words "somewhat loose rock" to "horrifying chossy sand" and you'll gain a more accurate description, if of only the first and second pitches. I cannot say anything for the remaining pitches because we did not get that far.
Pitch breakdown:
1)The climb traverses straight left from the belay on Rainbow Bridge for a pitch of "5.8". This is the only pitch we climbed of this route, because the movement was only slightly more difficult than Rainbow Bridge, rated 11a, but contained more loose rock on 70 feet than I have ever seen combined on all the routes I have climbed.
This pitch is a nightmare. Traverse left easily for 20 feet before clipping your first piton in a hollow sounding flake. Make some 5.9ish moves to reach the second piton, and then imagine how to gain the third piton with footholds crumbling away to dust. Spirit yourself past these difficulties and two more pitons to a wonderful, solid jug (the only one). Ponder the 10 foot runouts between remaining pitons and make your way past massive flakes held on with fairy dust, availing yourself only by using the smallest edges for your hands and sandy slab for your feet.
Finally reach the two piton belay with many bail slings (including ours). Laugh at your partner as he sketches across and knocks grapefruit-sized flakes down, because only you know the desperate plight he is immersed in.
And try to do this without ripping one of the many loose flakes to the vastness below, likely hitting a boulderer in the process. These flakes ranged in size up to approximately 30 lbs.
If you've had enough fun at this point, it is completely possible to rappel straight down with 1 60m rope. A 50m rope would not make it.
2) From what we could see of this pitch, it resembled the last pitch, only worse. Make your way up and left on depressions resembling holes dug by a child on a beach then washed by five waves. All of this appeared to be coated by a layer of dust that is already having quite the bacchanalian in your lungs.
From D'Antonio's guidebook: "Continue left past 7 fixed pins to a 2 piton belay.(10c)" If the last pitch you did was only 5.8, you are in for a ride.
The remaining descriptions are completely based off D'Antonio's guidebook.
3) Go straight up to vine ledge. 11 pitons (11a)
4) Head right on easy terrain to Pot of Gold (5.8). Summit.
Descent:
Scramble down some ledges until you can walk south and downclimb tourist gully.
NOTE:
I apologize for not finishing the route and therefore presenting a complete description of the climb. In all, this posting is kind of wankish and lame-sounding. I only hope to dissuade people who are not prepared for the full adventure from climbing this route. If you would like to post a complete route description, email me your information and I will replace mine with yours.
Change the words "somewhat loose rock" to "horrifying chossy sand" and you'll gain a more accurate description, if of only the first and second pitches. I cannot say anything for the remaining pitches because we did not get that far.
Pitch breakdown:
1)The climb traverses straight left from the belay on Rainbow Bridge for a pitch of "5.8". This is the only pitch we climbed of this route, because the movement was only slightly more difficult than Rainbow Bridge, rated 11a, but contained more loose rock on 70 feet than I have ever seen combined on all the routes I have climbed.
This pitch is a nightmare. Traverse left easily for 20 feet before clipping your first piton in a hollow sounding flake. Make some 5.9ish moves to reach the second piton, and then imagine how to gain the third piton with footholds crumbling away to dust. Spirit yourself past these difficulties and two more pitons to a wonderful, solid jug (the only one). Ponder the 10 foot runouts between remaining pitons and make your way past massive flakes held on with fairy dust, availing yourself only by using the smallest edges for your hands and sandy slab for your feet.
Finally reach the two piton belay with many bail slings (including ours). Laugh at your partner as he sketches across and knocks grapefruit-sized flakes down, because only you know the desperate plight he is immersed in.
And try to do this without ripping one of the many loose flakes to the vastness below, likely hitting a boulderer in the process. These flakes ranged in size up to approximately 30 lbs.
If you've had enough fun at this point, it is completely possible to rappel straight down with 1 60m rope. A 50m rope would not make it.
2) From what we could see of this pitch, it resembled the last pitch, only worse. Make your way up and left on depressions resembling holes dug by a child on a beach then washed by five waves. All of this appeared to be coated by a layer of dust that is already having quite the bacchanalian in your lungs.
From D'Antonio's guidebook: "Continue left past 7 fixed pins to a 2 piton belay.(10c)" If the last pitch you did was only 5.8, you are in for a ride.
The remaining descriptions are completely based off D'Antonio's guidebook.
3) Go straight up to vine ledge. 11 pitons (11a)
4) Head right on easy terrain to Pot of Gold (5.8). Summit.
Descent:
Scramble down some ledges until you can walk south and downclimb tourist gully.
NOTE:
I apologize for not finishing the route and therefore presenting a complete description of the climb. In all, this posting is kind of wankish and lame-sounding. I only hope to dissuade people who are not prepared for the full adventure from climbing this route. If you would like to post a complete route description, email me your information and I will replace mine with yours.
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