Over the Hill to Grandmother's House 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Logerquist, Williamson '70 |
| Submitted By: | Peter Gram on Feb 17, 2004 |
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Over the Hill to Grandmother's House - left variat...
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Description Another good route on the Riding Hood Wall. Over the Hill is the crack climb that pulls through a roof with black rock, right of Physical Graffiti. Many people only do the quality first pitch, and then rappel.
P1) Make sure to protect the beginning moves well. This is the crux and the landing is not great. Pull through the roof crack with varnished rock. Continue up easier climbing to some slings in the crack for a belay.
P2) Continue up the same crack system for a full rope length to the top.
Descent: Rap off west to a gully, then downclimb the gully.
Protection Standard Rack
BETA PHOTO: Over the Hill to Grandmother's House
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Over the Hill to Grandmother's House left variatio...
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John employs a headjam in order to free his hands ...
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Bryan Hawley attempting the right variation of Gra...
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| Comments on Over the Hill to Grandmother's House |
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 19, 2005
| Another option, if this start is too intimidating is to step left about 15' and climb through the other side of the roof. Although it is also 5.9+, it is more secure and much less strenuous. |
By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Nov 13, 2006
rating: 5.9+
| This route is REALLY fun through the roof sections and then gets REALLY easy (read boring) to the slings that are jammed in the crack. I would strongly encourage doing the right line through the fist crack. It protects perfectly with a #4 and #3 Camalot, and you can get a solid stance below the roof using the undercling to place these pieces deep in the crack. Strong moves get you over the roof! =)
MM |
By Top Rope Hero
From: Estes Park
Apr 1, 2010
rating: 5.10a
| As for the right line, a bit of fair warning: DO NOT, under any circumstances, cram a red tech friend (just larger than a #4 Camalot) up in the wedge.
Unless, that is, you want your vicious, throat-ripping, banshee-screaming, I-will-fuck-you-gently-with-a-chainsaw, vengeance-filled bitch bull of a gurlfriend to smash you out of existence into a dirty little grease spot because you made her hang for 20 awkward mins trying to wrestle that POS cam free. Then by all means cram away.
Otherwise, I second the recommendation to bring that happy #4. Cheers! |
By cragsavvy
From: Salt Lake City
Apr 17, 2011
| really fun! you can also top rope it from the top of the first pitch of physical graffiti |
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Oct 30, 2011
| Left side was 5.9- IMHO.
Right side was 5.10.
josh |
By Killing In The Name Of
Dec 29, 2011
| I agree with Josh. Left side is casual, right is burly. Both lots of fun, rap with a single rope or finish up P.G. |
By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Apr 9, 2013
| a great option for this route is to veer left about 15' above the roof and face climb directly to the Physical Graffiti anchor - this eliminates the easy sandy crack and you can then lower to the ground for TR'ing. Obviously it's a tad runout, but you can get a bomber red C3 about half way up between two plates. |
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