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On the left side of the north face is a detatched flake with a roof above it.
Climb up the flake, pull the roof, move up the steep knobby face, up and right to a belay below a corner.
Follow the corner to the top.
BETA PHOTO: Navagating up to the roof
navagating through the roof
BETA PHOTO: finding the perfect hold
finally going over easy
Under Over Easy
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 6, 2007
A wild pitch for 5.7... Make sure you have 2-3 sling ready to tie off knobs for pro above the roof. You should definitely link this one into the Prow for a great 5.10 link-up.
|By Ryan Kosh|
From: Los Angeles, CA
Aug 25, 2009
Didn't believe this was 5.7 until I climbed it. Solid jug on the roof and a heel hook get you over. Crux actually came before the roof for me, but I stemmed between this and the left-facing crack to the right. I'd recommend Hard Up as a better variation.
Aug 24, 2010
A fun route. "Hard Up" is a better start.
Aug 25, 2012
Very fun, perfect for a first-ever roof move! Harder than 5.7 if you're only 5'0" and have to throw for the (out-of-reach) knob and then hang one-handed before pulling it. Awesome!!
And yes, 'Hard Up' is a better start.
|By Tyson W.|
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 24, 2013
I climbed this as a warm-up with an experienced partner, but the whole time I was climbing I couldn't stop thinking how this would be an awesome climb to take a first timer on.
The improbable, yet technically very easy roof, to the puzzle of knobs above make this one that would surely hook even the most skeptical of n00bs on the sport!
I thought this was a standout climb for the grade.