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Oval Orifice 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Erik Kubiak
Page Views: 592
Submitted By: Drewsky on Jul 20, 2008

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Description 

Begins via Reptiles and Amphetamines, or via the 10c corner to the right. Above the anchors, steep climbing through a bulge leads to awkward and difficult climbing, including the use of the eponymous "orifice" hold. The bolts are well spaced at the top of the climb (.10). Apparently used to have fewer bolts.

Location 

Start via Reptiles or the .10c corner, then continue above the anchors. A 70m rope PROBABLY reaches from the first anchor, but maybe not from the top; be careful! Rating might be slight sandbag.

Protection 

Bolts; 15 or 16 quickdraws. It is possible to stop at the Dr. Evil anchor, which consists of lower-off hooks, or continue via 'sporty' 5.10+ or 11- climbing to a higher anchor. I think the anchor has fixed hardware, but I'm not sure. 70m rope mandatory; I'm not sure it reaches the ground from the topmost anchor, so use caution!


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