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 ADVANCED
Right Side Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aerial Sewer S 
Arlan's Route S 
Cardio T,S 
Cargoblasting S 
Cultural Diversity S 
Diamond Maker T 
Dirty Love T 
Double Tap S 
Elvis Pressure S 
Faith S 
Feed Me S 
Gossamer (Ardian's Route?) S 
Green Eggs and Ham S 
Hollowman T,S 
Last of a Long Line T 
Leaky Faucet S 
Loaded S 
Lucifer's Revenge S 
Lucky 13 T 
Mountaineer's Route T 
MP1 S 
MP2 S 
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride S 
Nameless S 
NC Sport Climbing S 
Not What I Expected T 
Novacaine S 
Old School T 
Orange Crush T 
Outstanding S 
Prince Albert T 
Reach Around T 
Samson & Delilah S 
Seatbelts T,TR 
Sex Noises S 
smoke this T 
Steam Room Board Meeting S 
Step Up S 
Step Up Right S 
Teeth S 
That Thing You Do S 
Tilt-a-Whirl S 
Todd's Corner T 
Tombstone, The T 
TP Crack T 
Tradmaster S 
Unfinished Project S 
unnamed 1 S 
Vulgar and Rude S 
Unsorted Routes:

Outstanding 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 281
Submitted By: Ryan Cantor on Mar 13, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Don't trespass outside SCC boundaries MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This popular route stays mostly to the left of the water groove, with anchors up and to the right of the groove.

Location 

To the right of Lucifer's Revenge

Protection 

Bolts, Anchors at top


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By Kirk Brode
Jun 21, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

It is uncommon in the Southeast for routes of this grade (5.7/5.7+) to be this good. It is somewhat unique in this aspect.

This route has multiple large, bomber, plate-like features that can be slung with 48-inch slings. This negates the need for the 5th bolt that was added to the route. The other bolts, except perhaps the third one, can safely be skipped if you use a modest rack. Safely skipping the third bolt requires more skill with placing gear than should be expected from a 5.8 leader in my opinion.

Bring a couple of 48-inch slings as part of your standard Yellow Bluff rack for protecting the numerous horns and plate features. Before you leave home, practice tying clove hitches with one hand (like on a door knob or something) so it's second nature when trying to sling the features on lead. It's something that every climber should know anyway.

A bolt isn't needed where you can sling one (sometimes more) of these bomber horns and plate-like features.
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