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|A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>|
A fun climb that follows a right-leaning crack on the side of a massive boulder. Step up onto the medium-sized boulders on the right and step left into the crack. Follow the crack until you step around to easier climbing on the face to the left, near the remains of a bush.
Near the end of the Near Trapps, come to a large, right-facing corner that is actually a massive boulder leaning against the cliff (the entire route is on the right side of the boulder). Look for a crack fading diagonally up to the right in line with the leaning direction of the boulder. The crack actually starts in the roof that is about seven feet off the ground. There is a medium-sized boulder to the right of the crack, and the bottom of this boulder is about the same height as the top of the lower roof. If you look up, you should see a large roof well above the top of the boulder. About mid-way up the climb, on the left near the arrete, is a small bush.
Trad - Chockstone rap anchor at the top.
Aug 4, 2008
I was so pumped when I did this that I don't remember how nice it was. My partner, who led it, had a lot of fun all the way up. She climbed through the bush and I stepped left around it.
|By Dana Bartlett|
Mar 23, 2009
This is route protects easily and well, the moves are interesting, and if you step left to the face at the obvious break near the dead bush, it is 5.7. It is well worth doing if you are in the area. We just put a new red sling on the belay tree a week ago.
Apr 30, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
This route is G all the way up. It's also pretty easy for 5.8. It's a very nice route, and often overlooked (often hidden by the tree at its base, actually).
|By John Ely|
Jul 16, 2009
Williams' new Near Trapps guide calls this a 5.7. Stiff at the grade, but the pro just sinks in all the way up.
Oct 24, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
super fun and really easy to protect. First pitch might be a nice climb for someone looking to break into the grade.
|By Anthony Baraff|
From: Paris, France
Aug 12, 2013
I just did this today. I think the bush is definitely dead. I see where it probably once was on the right crack. There is one final move before topping out the cracks that probably makes this 5.7+ to 5.8.