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Outside Corner 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown (1950's - 60's?)
Page Views: 18,788
Submitted By: John J. Glime on Jun 24, 2003

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talia on outside corner. middle of pitch 2

Description 

If you park at the "Remnants of an Ancient Sea" pullout, hike up and angle left toward the wall. You are heading for the main arete between the East Face and the North Face. When you reach the arete and where the wall meets the scree. You want to start the climb on the east side (left side) of the arete by a little tree/bush.

Pitch one:Climb up and right to reach the arete, then follow the right side (north side) of the arete up until you come to a BIG ledge. When I climbed this I had a 60 meter rope, so I am not positive that you can reach this ledge with a 50 meter rope. If you aren't going to make it, you can easily stop at a couple of points to break this pitch into 2. Either way, make sure you use long runners to prevent serious rope drag.

Pitch two:(From the Big ledge.)Start to the right of the belay and climb up through cracks staying on the north side of the arete until you reach a feature some call "the cave." It is an obvious ledge to belay from, now you are on the arete again, with better exposure. This pitch is easily reached with a 50 meter rope, it isn't too long, however I don't remember its exact length.

Pitch three:Technically you have the option of climbing up onto the east side (left)of the arete, but that isn't why you are climbing this route. So move to the right from the belay back out onto the north face and climb upward. The climbing finally gets the exposure you were looking for so look around and enjoy. Follow cracks up to the top. Again, a 50 meter rope easily reaches the top.

Descent:Hike up and then right (west) where you will find a great trail that leads down to the shale layer which is above the "Remnants..." parking area. Then down to the pullout.

This route would be three stars if the rock was better on the lower pitch. It is a great route for the moderate traditional leader.

Protection 

Standard trad. rack will be fine.


Photos of Outside Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Looks pretty 'ill' like this. Sorry, couldn't resi...
Looks pretty 'ill' like this. Sorry, couldn't resi...
Heading out of the cave!
Heading out of the cave!
Krissy studying opposition on the beautiful double...
Krissy studying opposition on the beautiful double...
Start of the second pitch just above the huge ledg...
Start of the second pitch just above the huge ledg...
The view when going right once you leave the cave ...
The view when going right once you leave the cave ...
Krissy low on the 4th pitch
Krissy low on the 4th pitch
Looking up P2
Looking up P2
Popular route.  One of 2 parties behind us, glad w...
Popular route. One of 2 parties behind us, glad w...
Starting the climb
Starting the climb
talia on outside corner. middle pitch 3
talia on outside corner. middle pitch 3
1st pitch
1st pitch
looking up at outside corner
looking up at outside corner
Krissy on the 1st pitch
Krissy on the 1st pitch
Starting the nice cracks to the cave belay.
Starting the nice cracks to the cave belay.
Perfect day in Big Cottonwood
Perfect day in Big Cottonwood
From this angle, you can see the exposed, north-si...
BETA PHOTO: From this angle, you can see the exposed, north-si...
Alan Cleary takes a break at the cave
Alan Cleary takes a break at the cave
Park where photo is taken, Walk up and first pitch...
BETA PHOTO: Park where photo is taken, Walk up and first pitch...
3rd pitch
3rd pitch
Placing gear on the first pitch.
Placing gear on the first pitch.
Panorama from the top
Panorama from the top

Comments on Outside Corner Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 15, 2014
By Vince Romney
May 14, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Definitely a great route, diverse and with good, committing moves for the grade. I'd caution the inexperienced trad leader to take advantage of each opportunity for pro on the last pitch, particularly as you approach the exit roof. Small-to-micro stoppers are helpful.
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 6, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This climb was a great experience for myself and my partner. Brief history: My brother, his two sons, and I had decided to climb this back in the 90's, but we never did it as the "fear factor" engulfed us on the 1st pitch. We bailed. My partner, Chris, informed me that he wanted to do it, and so I comitted. The climb is neither as scary as people led me to believe, nor as hard to protect. Granted, I probably placed as many pieces on the last pitch as I did on all the other pitches combined, but only because the last pitch was the only sustained pitch. I broke it into 4 pitches and all of the 1st 3 pitches had good sections and weak sections. The 1st pitch initial crack (until you cross the arete) was beautiful. The early moves on the 2nd pitch were exciting. The 3rd pitch coming into the cave was magnificent, but the 4th pitch (exposed right variation) was consistent and fun and well... exposed.

The only fixed gear I saw on the route was at the cave belay (1 piton), and on pitch 2 (another piton). The belay stations at pitch 2 and 3 had slings preset around immobile rocks. There were also 2 "lost" cams on this route. Cam #1 was really lost (broken trigger) and really deep in the crack. Kudos to you if you can get it out, bad karma if you do. Cam 2 would require fingers the size of needles. I am not sure what went through the mind of the climber that placed that piece as it looked like a guaranteed loss. The protection throughout the climb was good, and it required no special gear. Standard rack would work. However a red metolius protected the parallel crack off of the pedestal very nicely.

This climb was the "classic" that I stated for the obvious reasons. 1) the length 2) good rock 3) varied climbing 4) The massive amount of exposure on pitch 4. The only detraction from this climb was the fact that there were easy section interspersed in the climb. Not enough to kill the 3 stars. This climb may become an annual ritual with me.
By Carl Grundstrom
Aug 2, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I loved this route. Three pitches of beautiful rock with great belay ledges. The first pitch is straight-forward and not too difficult. The start of the second pitch is the crux but the difficult section lasts only about 10 feet. The last pitch is steep with sustained 5.7 moves and is the most exciting. Protection is good on all three pitches. A large cam (#4 friend) is useful in two locations.
By ASENDR
Oct 4, 2005

Great exposure. P-1 & p-2 can be done as one pitch stretching a 70meter rope. Belay just over the top under the big boulder, using a hand size cam and a smaller one
By ASENDR
Oct 5, 2005

Correction. That would be p-2 & p-3 that can be combined w/70 meter rope.
By Lee Gitlin
Nov 9, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Pitches 1 and 2 can be run together with a 60 meter rope, although rope drag may become an issue. P1 starts with some straightforward, easy face climbing. Plenty of no hands rests and lots of options for pro (standard rack). After crossing the arete, P1 has some interesting dihedral moves, but nothing too difficult.

P2 has an interesting start. Your best early handholds are also the best chance to place pro, and you will want to get in a piece or two straight away to protect this early crux. The climbing eases up considerably after 15 feet or so.

P3 is a bit broken and discontinuous, but a nice exit into the cave belay station.

P4 is fantastic and protects well with smaller cams and nuts. Go right or don't bother doing this climb. It begins with a very comitting move out onto a face. Do you trust that foot hold? After you get on the face, the pitch is long and continuous.Make sure you bring plenty of pro, or you may find yourself faced with creative gear placement toward the end of P4.

The exit, a steep path that descends to the west, is also pretty sporty, particularly the last 100 vertical feet. You'll find yourself skidding on lots of loose shale.

By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Jun 1, 2007

meh, the last pitch was good, 1 star for the other two pitches. Kind of the standard BCC broken/ledgy climbing, not great pro. The last pitch is continuous and solid though. I guess with a few exceptions, maybe I'm just not in love with BCC trad climbing, since I've heard a lot of people say good things about this route.
By oliver
Jul 31, 2007

This is one of the best moderates in the BCC area
By Bee Charmer
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 21, 2007

$50 reward for lost cell phone. Lost 8/21 It fell down a crack in the back of the second pitch(the cave). Silver LG phone. It is about 2-2 1/2 feet down and you'll need to take a stick or a reacher or grabber to reach it. Maybe you could push it into an empty soda bottle that is attached to string or something and pull it up. Just suggestions..... Thanks to all that give it a try. If it helps you feel even more sorry for me, I got 10 bee stings just below that pitch. If by some miracle you retrieve it, call 801.783.8996 ask for LaNova
By Bee Charmer
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 21, 2007

Besides the bees and the lost phone, it was an amazing climb with excellent exposure! And the view......take a camera!
By Matthew Smith
Nov 5, 2007

November 2nd 2007-Lost Wallet/money clip. while on Outer corner on sunday, we think it fell out of the pack at the top of the climb. there should be a drivers licence for Steven Aderholt with it. if you you did the climb sunday afternoon or find this wallet please email stevenaderholt@yahoo.com

Thanks

Matt
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Jun 29, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

what a great route with with seriously committing moves. Walk off kinda sucks... really sucks at the end. mind the rattlers.

The erosion we're causing could warrant some trail work there to build steps like the slips or some rap bolts to get down.
By Tosh Peters
From: Park City, UT
Aug 2, 2008

This is a really good route for moderate trad leaders or anyone who loves a good day on the rocks. all day shade, the cave belay, and the exposed juggy roof pulling on p3 come together to make a bcc classic. I agree that some kind of stairs or rappel possibility should be installed to help people negotiate the shale band gully at the end of the walk off. that thing is a slip and slide.
By Alex Headman
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 21, 2008

The best exposure I've ever had the pleasure of being on. The final pitch proves this climb worthy of its classic rating. The start of the 2nd pitch has some fun moves off the belay ledge. Be cautious of rattle snakes on the walk off. I about stepped on top of one.
By Rachelle J. Ross
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Lots of talk about this climb but it's all well deserved. A classic indeed, one you'll talk about with your friends for weeks after. A note about the walk-off: Make sure you aren't doing it in the dark. It's dangerous with tons of loose rock on the final area of the descent. I slid down on my backside to prevent a fall or ankle injury, only to the demise of one nice pair of Mountain Hardware pants. Still better than an injury...
By Woodson
From: Park City, Ut.
Jul 26, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Wow, classic is all I can say! The last pitch is no doubt airy, but protects well, and is sustained good climbing. Definately do the right variation, as it makes the climb! The double crack stemming was my favorite part...
By Riddler
From: Centerville, UT
Aug 31, 2009

Great route, but not quite the classic I was hoping for. Several sections of crappy rock and mediocre pro detract from an otherwise awesome route. Still, a fun outing and pretty exciting. The last pitch was great, and much longer than I was expecting. As with a lot of routes in BCC, I found tricams to be especially useful.
By Michael Buchanan
Apr 26, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

What a great route! Always fun, whenever I do it! P1 face is fun, P2 cracks are awesome and P3 stays consistent with some sweet face climbing w/o as much gear, but it is solid.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Jun 4, 2010

excellent climbing, superb belay ledges, great position, ultra-classic!
By Eric Godfrey
From: slc, ut
Aug 6, 2010

Awesome route, bad day. Core shot my rope and lost a .5 bd camalot. Forgot my gear removal tool and couldn't pry it out after it walked deep into the crack. If anyone pulls it out I'd be stoked to have it back... but I'm guessing whoever grabs it will take the booty and run. ericgodfrey AT gmail DOT com if anyone finds it.
By Andy VanHouten
From: Park City, UT
May 14, 2011

Exciting route...good climbing bottom to top. Pitch 3 is definetely sustained from the start and eases up the farther up you go. Didn't see any lost gear other than an old piton, so bring plenty of pro, especially for the 3rd pitch. Grab a buddy and go do it.
By Erik S. Gillis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 15, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Awesome climb. However I lost my wedding ring in the parking lot and had a cam walk in right at the third pitch. If anybody finds either of those let me know.
By Mark Kadlec
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 6, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Boisal,

Damn, I tried getting that nut out! I spent 10 minutes hammering away at it, I hate to say it but it might be in there for a while.

Mark.
By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a super cool climb! It absolutely deserves the 4 star rating. I will be repeating it.

You should definitely run the first two pitches together. The 2nd pitch is so easy that you'll only need a few pieces of pro. You should have plenty of gear to make it to the large ledge in one shot (with hardly any drag).

The crux is the start of the third pitch, but it only lasts for a few feet, then the rest of the pitch is pretty easy with only one moderate section at the end.

The 4th pitch is the most sustained, but it has plenty of rest positions, and it takes gear pretty easily. There is one slightly "runout" section on the forth pitch, but it isn't too hard. Just make sure you put in a piece before you attack it.

Overall an excellent climb. It does not deserve a PG13 or R rating. Great climb! Not as hard as everyone makes it sound. The crux might be harder than 5.7, but it is right off the huge ledge and it only lasts for 2 moves, then it eases up.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Jun 14, 2012

I did this climb again today after first doing it about 8 years ago, and I forgot how good it is. I think it's my favorite moderate multi pitch route in the Cottonwoods. We combined pitches 1 and 2 and then 3 and 4 with a 70, though rope drag was apparently horrendous for the last two pitches.
By boulderkeith
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route. We did it as 4 pitches to facilitate communication. Each pitch has a little something for you. The last pitch is great. For the descent, look for the larger juniper tree with the obvious foot traffic into the gully. I saw another party downclimb early (looked ok but not great). They surfed a lot of talus. It would be great if someone rap bolted the slab behind the remnants of the sea sign. Definitely less eco damage than the foot traffic down the talus and safer too.
By zoso
Sep 4, 2012

Um, think not. If nothing else, I think it'd promote more sport rappelling.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Rap bolting the walk-off? WTF is wrong with people these days...
How about we pave it and start a shuttle service?
By user id
Sep 4, 2012

boulderkeith wrote:
It would be great if someone rap bolted the slab behind the remnants of the sea sign. Definitely less eco damage than the foot traffic down the talus and safer too.

It would be great is someone would pave this and start a shuttle service. I saw some people doing the walk off and it looked like it was making them tired.
By grk10vq
Administrator
Sep 4, 2012

Eco damage to a talus field?
thats a new one.
By laura stade
From: salt lake city, utah
Sep 14, 2012

Like everyone says, the exposure was fun. I did have trouble finding enough good protection.
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Mar 14, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I feel like this route would be fairly difficult for a new 5.7 trad leader. If 5.7 is your limit, I'd do a few others before committing to this one. It is a phenomenal route, a lot of fun with a few really memorable moves. Really cool line.

conditions: as of March 14th, 2013 there is snow at the top that is melting onto the final section of the last pitch. This made it quite a bit spicier and I really double checked my pro before committing to the wet rocks. Both shoes and hands were wet.
By Josh Allred
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 9, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Dropped a locker w/ ATC on route yesterday. Im positive I had it starting the pitch. I think it got caught on my shirt. Always fun to get on top of a pitch without a belay device. If anyone finds it I would sure appreciate it.

This is one of the best climbs in BCC. Crux is off the deck on the second pitch.
By kevin parks
From: Salt Lake City
Jul 25, 2013

Found a rope near this route - Outside Corner today - July 24, 2013 - if it's yours, message me a description of it. I'm in SLC
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 24, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A variation for pitch 2 is to walk a few feet left of the belay boulder and go straight up the thin finger crack. Slightly harder than the usual crux of p2, but really fun for the 15 feet until you get back on the corner. Probably about 5.8 or so, protects easily with a couple BD .3s. Good for passing or climbing when someone is already on the route.
By jrb208
Mar 10, 2014

Climbed today March 10th 2014. My partner got injured and we had to bail super quick. had to leave an old purple edelweiss. It is tied up in the cave. I know it is a long shot but if anyone wants to return it to me I would be greatly appreciative. I will buy whomever dinner or a six pack or whatever they want! And climber karma will be on your side! if you retrieve it and are feeling nice my number is 4359321006.
By Kevin Chuba
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 24, 2014

Take a 50 meter rope and do it in four pitches. Swapping leads and keeping both climbers warm and happy depending on climate. A solid single rack to #3 Camelot, if placing your nuts where needed........
I opted for the 70 meter rope in the shade while placing a double set; to the other side of the rainbow. Be prepared for this route. The Ruckman guide, even states that it has a bit of exposure. A very nice introduction for a climber who wants to learn the term "route finding". If you find an old ass pin, behind a bush, on the last pitch, your grinning:)
WALK OFF to the north west down a very well maintained trail. Don't leave your booty for the pirates. YARRRR!
By madskates
From: SLC
May 20, 2014

Awesome route, if you've got someone new to placing gear and wants a longer route this is it. You would be plenty fine with a single rack. Rope drag on the first pitch is terrible so be prepared and bring lots of runners for those cams and nuts! Also the first and second pitch(The Cave) have fixed webbing for anchors.
By justa beater
Jun 9, 2014

Such a killer route...loved the exposure and the whole climb felt very natural, some moves take a bit of thought but otherwise felt very secure, all the people saying stay right when leaving the cave belay are right, wow what a cool feeling...I punched two pieces in at the lip runnered and equalised then ran it out up the face...so much, almost too much fun!!! I rock a double rack to #4 so I had no trouble with gear at all, if you see it pkace it and I saw it the whole climb pretty much.
By spencer donovan
Aug 10, 2014

yarrrr! found some shiny booty just dangling in the wind on Friday afternoon, hit me up with all the correct info and its all yours. 435 64o 66o3
By Mike Marmar
Oct 15, 2014

It is just barely possible to do this in 2 pitches with a 70m. First pitch to the big ledge, second pitch is a rope stretcher to the top. Run it out or use doubles/lots of long slings to manage drag.