With the generous permission of Ian-Spencer Green and Stewart, I rebolted part of Pagan Wisdom and this route to yield a clean, impressive, and futuristic line that used to be called "New Dawn Fades". This route starts just right of Rapture, and follows two bolts of 5.10 climbing to an absolutely show stopping, 8 foot dyno from sloping jugs to a brick in the roof (which has room for one hand, slopes the wrong way and is harder to hold than a greased pig!), then finish up the "easier" part of the climb, Pagan Wisdom.
The name implies a bizarre explosion, which is what's needed to get through the crux....
Right smack in the middle of the Spray Wall shield, below Pagan Wisdom....
7 bolts and chains.
|By Stewart M. Green|
Jun 2, 2009
Great job, Ben! I'm glad you were able to get this project done.
|By Ben Schmitt|
Jun 8, 2009
Thanks Stewart! I really appriciate you and Ian letting me do this thing, you guys have put alot of great work into elevenmile, I'm so psyched about the number of new quality routes going up!
Jun 30, 2009
Nice video on mvm of this rig.
|By Darryl Roth|
Jul 22, 2009
If I could climb it, I'd give it four stars. You look awesome in the video Ben. Keep pushing and bringing what's possible to the Pikes Peak Region!
|By Ben Schmitt|
Aug 17, 2009
Darryl, I appreciate the positive comments, and also the incredible amount of work you and Dan put into making hard routes for my generation in the pikes peak region. I think that sometimes people overlook how much effort it is to create new things, and hopefully more visionary new climbers from The Springs can help take it to the next level....