|a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
A fine route that gets surprisingly little traffic. Not the place for a beginning 5.8 leader.
This is one of the first routes in the Nears. When the trail first hits the rock, look up and locate the huge Kansas City roof. This route starts just a little bit left. The upper part is obvious - a V-shaped corner about 10' high, leading to a roof. The start is harder to locate - look for a long, leftward traverse into the V-corner.
P1: To reach this traverse, climb up easily to a stance below a small roof. Clip the pin above, drop in a nut to back it up and then commit to the crux: a traverse up and left just above a small overhang. This traverse is tenuous at best, and there's not much beyond the pin to protect you. After finally reaching good holds, drop in a piece for your second and continue to traverse to the corner. Then up and left to an anchor. 5.8 PG, 120'.
You can go up to the trees here but most people rap from the anchor.
Standard Gunks rack
From: Wayne, PA
May 25, 2014
Actually, I don't think you climb up easily to the pin. The move over the bulge is committing and not well protected. A fall there would result in an injury. The traverse has tiny hands but pretty good feet. It's not so bad. Continue to the alcove, look around for hands and work your way up to the final, juggy traverse. It's a fun climb, but, be prepared for run out, PG 13 climbing.