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Outer Limits 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Bridwell and Jim Orey, 1971.
Page Views: 12,980
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 16, 2006

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Angela on Outer limits

Description 

This climbs the Beautiful crack to the right of "Elevator Shaft", for two pitches. Traverse right at the top of the second pitch.
People usally do the first pitch then rappel.
A true Yosemite Classic!


Protection 

Pro to 3.5"



Photos of Outer Limits Slideshow Add Photo
Grant Hiskes on "Outer Limits". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Grant Hiskes on "Outer Limits".
Photo by Blitzo.
Pavel starting up the first pitch
Pavel starting up the first pitch
Not even halfway? A gloriously long pitch!
Not even halfway? A gloriously long pitch!
Grant Hiskes on "Outer Limits". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Grant Hiskes on "Outer Limits".
Photo by Blitzo.
DK leading Outer Limits
DK leading Outer Limits
Outer Limits a long time ago
Outer Limits a long time ago
Pitch 1 of Outer Limits.
Pitch 1 of Outer Limits.
Robby Balls walking the 1st pitch. Photo: Kevin Umbel
Robby Balls walking the 1st pitch. Photo: Kevin Um...
Comments on Outer Limits Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 19, 2014
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 6, 2007

It's to the left of elevator shaft if you're facing the rock.

By Kevin Friedrich
Oct 28, 2008

3 #2 Cams and 2 #3 Cams. Glorious.

By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Apr 24, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Geez...I took three #3's up this and wish I had brought two more :0

By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 28, 2009

This climb makes my balls drop!

AWESOME!

By Dynomight510
Sep 11, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Steep, sustained and powerful. Thankfully its hand size. Solid for the grade.

By Osprey
From: ...
Dec 15, 2009

Run laps on pitch one with a single 70m rope, or a single 60m rope if the belay is bumped up to the base of the Elevator Shaft.

By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Jan 14, 2010

its a great climb. Doing the 2nd pitch going to the left is also very good.

By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Mar 12, 2010

P1 is an instant classic, bring three hand size pieces, if you're really scratching for gear, you can probably squeeze in a few fist sized pieces too. P1 seems about .10a, didn't do p2.

By George K. Watson
From: Nederland, CO
Jul 10, 2010

Beautiful route. If there is a crux, it's low down at a little pod area and then the thing keeps going and going and going at hand size. A fistful of hand size cams enables you to pro this superbly.

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Jan 31, 2011

In the Sierra Club's mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed the use of letter grades in The Innocent, The Ignorant, And The Insecure.

His examples for 5.10c thin cracks were Outer Limits (p2), Lunatic Fringe, Hardly Pinnacle, High Quality, Slack Center, English Breakfast, Sacherer-Fredricks, Hot Line (p1 & p2), and Mental Block (P1).

Pitch one of Outer Limits made the example list for 5.10b thin cracks, along with Gripper, Anathema, Easy Streaks, and New Dimensions (P1).

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2011

wow. I mean, really... WOW! That is one awesome climb! Great hands for sooo long. Awesome and absolutely bombproof gear. You could take a piece or two that is between #2 and #3 camalot for the hands section as some of the #3s were pretty tight. However you protect it, enjoy some sick, bomber jamming!

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 13, 2011

I found the "perfect 10a hands" up higher on p1 to be the crux: insecure off-hands for a looong ways in my case! The shorter, 10b crux down lower allowed tight hands and was easier to get through.

You get rests on this route, but many of them are what I would call "active rests"!

By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Nov 26, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Amazing route! Sooo close to the send, but alas the widening right leaning crack at the end wore me down just before the last rest. One hang. 10c seems dead on for me and my biggish hands, surprising that the consensus is leaning soft..

By Drew Marshall
Dec 20, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

don't skip the second pitch! It is rad.

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jun 19, 2014

BITD you really couldn't protect the 2nd pitch traverse. There was a fixed pin or two, but they kept falling out and they really only protected the leader. If the second blew the 5.10c moves they were looking at a 25'+ swing into and hopefully, not onto, the Elevator Shaft.