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This route moves up the face just to the left of 5.8 crack. Follow the directions to 5.8 Crack at Rincon (or 5.10 Crack or Rincon itself) and look just to the right. There are 2 huge buckets just behind the large tree to start this route.
The [initial] moves are an awkward start, not so much for their inherent difficulty, but for trying to avoid leaning back on the tree.
After 20' or so of somewhat hard moves, the route becomes less defined. The rock forced me to the left slightly, nearly onto 5.8 Crack on my first try. On my second try I forced the line to the right and fell a few times. The route seems to be never done and the difficulty and lichen present would suggest that the route does move slightly left.
Well, you can step left every so often and place gear in "5.8 crack" or you can turn around and girth hitch a tree behind you with long slings. The tree is uncomfortably close (hard not to lean on it) for the first 10 feet, and then gets too far away after 30' up. Really, this is best TR'd from the tree ont he ledge and to the left, above 5.8 crack.
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 14, 2001
Sorry, the route is just to the RIGHT of 5.8 crack. It is to the left of a "crack" I call "The Pinch Flake. (5.9)"
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 1, 2006
On TR, on the upper part I went further right than Tony apparently did, to a vague crack that is left of the crack of Neato. This seemed like the obvious thing to do, but looking down from above, it looks like the original line may have gone straight up the face. The way I did it, the crux was the starting moves at about hard 10, and then maybe easy 10 after that.