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The Bastille - N Face
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Outer Face 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rob Candelaria & Roger Briggs - 1976
Page Views: 849
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 10, 2003
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Outer Face may not be worth doing on its own, but it really is the natural finish pitch to the classic Northwest Corner. The business of the Northwest Corner finishes up on the big Outer Space ledge. Instead of heading around the corner here, continue straight up on humungous jugs and slightly rotten rock - this is very steep and a lot of fun. Above here you continue up a crack to a ledge below a slab. Place gear at your feet and then head up the slab to an obvious undercling and gear placement (Yellow Alien). Falling on this slab would land you on the ledge ten feet below, but it's only 8+/9- and fairly secure. A difficult move up past the undercling brings you to a stance where you can get some decent gear. Head straight up and over the (hard 5.10 move on lichen, gear below your feet), or traverse right (5.9 good gear) and up to the top of the belay.


Protection 

Aliens are helpful. There are some short runouts above ledges.



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By Brad Bond
Jun 13, 2003

...The step-across onto the undercling flake can be protected by a 3.5 friend placed to the right in a funky heuco. The placement is hard to see at first but it's actually pretty good.

By TBD
Jun 16, 2003

When I climbed this, it was as a finish to the Northwest Corner. My partner had led the last pitch of the Northwest Corner and continued past the Outer Space ledge up to the ledge below the slab, and set a belay there. It made a lot of sense to do it that way. While the slab section is short, it was nice to be belayed when my belayer could see me, as it does get a little thin and a fall could result in hitting the ledge below the slab.

By Chris Beh
Jul 21, 2007

This is a great pitch. Not quite as exposed as Outer Space, less awkward and no pigeon shit. Worth doing again. The first half of the pitch is only 5.8 but fun with decent gear to be found amongst the choss. Rock gets very solid for the exit of the first overhanging bit with more decent gear just above. The most dangerous part is stepping over to place a piece in the undercling, a 5.9 friction move. Brad's beta for the big cam is spot on with the placement at waist level a few feet to the side. The crux is on amazing Bastille rock with good pro through it and after. Tried the left finish which has a couple of holds leading into it and then nothing but lichen. I ended up going right around the final overhang, better pro and easier.