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Out to Lunge 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 228
Submitted By: Paul Puey on Sep 9, 2010  with updates from Mark van Eijk

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Left traversing crack with bomber hand holds but slippery, featureless feet. Super pumpy. Finishes off with mini roof and slab hand crack of Easter Island.

Location 

Bolted rappel anchor up top.

Protection 

A bunch of #1, 2 C4s


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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

This description matches what we believe is described in the guide, for the lower of the 2 left-leaning diagonals. The upper one is shown in the book, albeit perhaps erroneously.
In any case, that lower diagonal felt 5.8- even wet, if you jam it. Warning- even when the lip of the horizontal appears dry, the crack does hold water and stays slick and green. Big moves take you from jug to jug.
By Dru
Jun 5, 2012

The lower traverse is a 5.8 variant to Easter Island, first cleaned and climbed by Mark Mason and Derrick Horne in 2005.

The proper Out To Lunge climbs a short rightwards traverse (thin crack, easier to foot traverse than hand traverse) and up to gain the higher of the two traverses. More like 5.9 than 10a.
By Sean H
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 6, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Not sure how anyone would get 5.8- for this. The 2012 edition Squamish Select puts it at 5.10b, and the description is, "The high diagonal crack. Fun, and easy for the grade." I'd agree with the latter comment, and settle with 5.10a. The book's topo is small, and shows the line trending left all the way from the ground. THAT is probably incorrect, as, the area to the right of where I started, and the guy that lead it before me started, is overgrown with thick bushes. The line is obvious, and moves up and slightly right, before gaining the upper diagonal crack.

Bottom line, if you come here to tick the route - Certainly not a proud 10b send, but definitely fun, and has a few moves of 5.9+ or 10a. The traverse additionally has nothing but slabby smearing for feet.

Way too long a comment for this climb though :)
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Jul 1, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One move wonder, but the move is legitimately 5.10 I think, if not harder. All the jugs before and after keep the grade low.

Particularly enjoyed the mantle to the anchor. Really fun, just not the same grade as Split Beaver. Also, the route description seems to describe the right hand variation of Easter Island. Out To Lunge starts at the same place but takes a finger crack to the right before doubling back left along a lovely traverse.

Gear up to 1", maybe two .75s for the traverse. Small nut protects the crux well.