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Out to Lunge 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 325
Submitted By: Paul Puey on Sep 9, 2010  with updates from Mark van Eijk

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

Out to lunge is the higher of the two traversing cracks to the right of easter island. It starts with a brief right-leaning crack with one move of 10-, then traverses left to its own anchor, independent of Easter Island.

Location 

Bolted rappel anchor up top.

Protection 

Gear up to 1", maybe two .75s for the traverse. Small nut protects the crux well.


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By Dru
Jun 5, 2012

The lower traverse is a 5.8 variant to Easter Island, first cleaned and climbed by Mark Mason and Derrick Horne in 2005.

The proper Out To Lunge climbs a short rightwards traverse (thin crack, easier to foot traverse than hand traverse) and up to gain the higher of the two traverses. More like 5.9 than 10a.
By Sean H
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 6, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Not sure how anyone would get 5.8- for this. The 2012 edition Squamish Select puts it at 5.10b, and the description is, "The high diagonal crack. Fun, and easy for the grade." I'd agree with the latter comment, and settle with 5.10a. The book's topo is small, and shows the line trending left all the way from the ground. THAT is probably incorrect, as, the area to the right of where I started, and the guy that lead it before me started, is overgrown with thick bushes. The line is obvious, and moves up and slightly right, before gaining the upper diagonal crack.

Bottom line, if you come here to tick the route - Certainly not a proud 10b send, but definitely fun, and has a few moves of 5.9+ or 10a. The traverse additionally has nothing but slabby smearing for feet.

Way too long a comment for this climb though :)
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Jul 1, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One move wonder, but the move is legitimately 5.10 I think, if not harder. All the jugs before and after keep the grade low.

Particularly enjoyed the mantle to the anchor. Really fun, just not the same grade as Split Beaver. Also, the route description seems to describe the right hand variation of Easter Island. Out To Lunge starts at the same place but takes a finger crack to the right before doubling back left along a lovely traverse.

Gear up to 1", maybe two .75s for the traverse. Small nut protects the crux well.
By Deanna Puttonen
Mar 3, 2015

An update in response to Sean H's post above - this whole cliff has been cleaned so there is now the possibility to start as the topo in the book suggests - the line trending left all the way from the ground. Starting this way is easier than taking the right leaning finger crack for sure - and I would say lowers the grade. Doing the climb avoiding the right-leaning finger crack felt easier than Out to Easter - my 3 friends agreed.
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