Out to Lunge
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Left traversing crack with bomber hand holds but slippery, featureless feet. Super pumpy. Finishes off with mini roof and slab hand crack of Easter Island.
Bolted rappel anchor up top.
A bunch of #1, 2 C4s
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c
This description matches what we believe is described in the guide, for the lower of the 2 left-leaning diagonals. The upper one is shown in the book, albeit perhaps erroneously.
In any case, that lower diagonal felt 5.8- even wet, if you jam it. Warning- even when the lip of the horizontal appears dry, the crack does hold water and stays slick and green. Big moves take you from jug to jug.
Jun 5, 2012
The lower traverse is a 5.8 variant to Easter Island, first cleaned and climbed by Mark Mason and Derrick Horne in 2005.
The proper Out To Lunge climbs a short rightwards traverse (thin crack, easier to foot traverse than hand traverse) and up to gain the higher of the two traverses. More like 5.9 than 10a.
|By Sean H|
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 6, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Not sure how anyone would get 5.8- for this. The 2012 edition Squamish Select puts it at 5.10b, and the description is, "The high diagonal crack. Fun, and easy for the grade." I'd agree with the latter comment, and settle with 5.10a. The book's topo is small, and shows the line trending left all the way from the ground. THAT is probably incorrect, as, the area to the right of where I started, and the guy that lead it before me started, is overgrown with thick bushes. The line is obvious, and moves up and slightly right, before gaining the upper diagonal crack.
Bottom line, if you come here to tick the route - Certainly not a proud 10b send, but definitely fun, and has a few moves of 5.9+ or 10a. The traverse additionally has nothing but slabby smearing for feet.
Way too long a comment for this climb though :)