Out to Lunch
||Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Doug Bridgers, Peter Prandoni, 1976, FFA: Doug Bridgers, Davito Hammack, Gary Hicks, 1979|
|Page Views: ||842|
|Submitted By: ||George Perkins on Oct 18, 2010|
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Allan Aiken following the traverse onto Warpy vari...
This long and excellent climb goes up the center of Muralla Grande, passing the biggest obvious roof just to its left. It might be considered a major variation to Warpy Moople, as "Out to Lunch" shares the start with that route. This may be a small step up in seriousness from Sandia 5.10 classics like Yucca Flower Tower and Mtn Momma. Expect good rock and possibly some complicated route-finding on what is maybe the best 5.10 line on the cliff.
Pitch 1: The first 1+1/2 pitches are shared with Warpy Moople. Start at the highest pine tree below the big roofs. Follow a shallow right-facing corner straight above, then weave your way left then back right, then back left again to a belay on a grassy ledge (5.7, 130’).
Pitch 2: Go up and right, undercling right past a roof, then go straight up passing a big flake. Move left to a ledge with a piton, belay. (5.9, 100’).
Pitch 3: Climb above the ledge and work left to a belay ledge left of the biggest roof. This belay has a fixed pin and fixed nut (5.7, 90’).
Pitch 4: This crux pitch is full-on Sandia wildness. Climb right and up a tricky right-facing corner passing 2 pitons. Clip a 1/4” bolt below a roof, make a thin traverse right 15’ to a new bolt. Go straight up technical terrain with small knobs to a crack, then turn a small roof and step right to a 2-bolt belay. (5.10b, 110’)
Pitch 5: (a) Traverse right and slightly downward 20’, to a short hand crack (rejoining Warpy Moople, which traverses in from the right). Face climb, continuing up and right, sometimes with infrequent protection to a 2-bolt belay on a small ledge. (5.9, 120’). (b) Or go straight up from the belay (see comment from John Kear below).
Pitch 6: Straight up from the belay to a fixed pin. Make one tricky move just past the fixed pin, traverse right, and go up to a grassy ledge. Angle up and left, first climbing past a small chimney, then along an easy left-trending ramp to a belay at another grassy ledge (5.8+, 160’).
Pitch 7: Stem a weird dihedral off the belay; then straight up loose open corner to the top (5.8, 180’).
There are other options from the belay after pitch 4, going straight up or to the left; one of those is probably the original route. Consult the guidebooks and see comment below.
Cams and nuts to 4”, with some doubles in finger/thin hands sizes.
Beginning the crux 4th pitch
|By J tot|
From: Tempe, AZ
Oct 18, 2010
The crux pitch is all about very technical slab climbing.
On the traverse, trust your feet and keep going right. You'll know you're done when you have a larger ledge to stand on relative to what you were on. Look up, clip the bolt, and continue to move through more technical face climbing, finish through a short and slightly overhung dihedral. Very heady, but super awesome pitch!
From: Rio Rancho, NM
Oct 21, 2010
Awesome job on the crux pitch. I was watching from the sidelines as you and George did Out to Lunch.
|By John Kear|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 21, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Going straight up is recommended on pitch 5. You can also continue straight up the wall for another two pitches not sharing any terrain with Warpy.
Pitch 5 - go straight up with intermittent protection on 5.10 climbing, I think you end up at another bolted belay.
Pitch 6 - work your way up and slightly left climbing over a few bulges, arrived on a big slanting red ledge and belay, I remember this being a long pitch about 5.9
Pitch 7 - Climb good red rock following a crack system on the left side of a red pillar 5.8. This top out ends up about 40ft left of the top of Warpy.
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 22, 2010
Thanks for the advice and info John. Sounds like I will have to try going straight up next time. (Both times I'd been on this, the crux was exciting enough we were looking for the easiest way up after.)
|By Mick S|
From: Sandia Park, NM
Sep 8, 2011
You should be solid climbing 5.10 with minimal protection if you choose to climb straight up above the belay on pitch 5.