Out of Touch 5.9+ R
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Brian and Vicki Smoot, 1989 |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on Jul 3, 2004 |
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Enjoying the lower face.
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Description The second bolted line from the right. This is the one that works the roofs near the top. It starts thin and entails good edging and good mantling ability (as do half the routes on this wall). The 1st bolt is high and hard to get to unless you find a sidepull. Getting to the 3rd bolt involves possible ledge fall, hence the "s" rating. What makes this climb a classic in my book are a few things. 1) It is a route with enough length. 2) It is consistently 5.9, yes.. it eases up a bit here and there, but it isn't a 5.6 with a 5.9 move. 3) good rock 4) Varied climbing exists on this route. Juggy roofs, laybacking, sidepulls, thin edges, mantles, smears, friction holds, what else could you ask for. Oh!! **Point 4) An airy finish.** Now what more could you ask for.
Protection 8 draws for the route and 2 more for the anchors.
Great Climb!
| BETA PHOTO: 2013 May Photo of Out of Touch from the bottom loo...
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By Lee Gitlin Jul 3, 2004 rating: 5.9+
| If you only climb one route on Iron Curtain wall, make sure it's "Out of Touch." A sidepull unlocks your way to the first bolt, and good mantling is a must. The lower part of the route is a bit run out, so fall below bolt #3 would be messy. Some nice juggy holds get you to a cool roof sequence. One bit of advice: avoid the holds right of the roof, in the section of broken rock. Instead, find a nice, positive series of holds left above the roof and pull to the anchors. Overall, the route is top notch and highly recommended. |
By vincent pierce Oct 5, 2004 rating: 5.9
| Yeh, this is a good route. It looks like it would be the hardest on the wall thanx to the roof but... it's not. Whatever you do, make sure you follow the bolts over that roof! Don't chicken out and go right. The holds are there. Just suck it up and go for it! Great moves with fun exposure. |
By Mark Michaels From: Draper, UT Sep 23, 2006
| Fun, varied climbing, makes you think the whole way...really fun roof to finish off! |
By Boissal From: Small Lake, UT Jun 9, 2009 rating: 5.9
| This one has the most exciting mantles of all the routes on the Iron Curtain wall is you start it straight below the bolt. To avoid the PG13/R moves you can traverse on the ramp from the right and clip the bolt then try the mantle on TR. A couple of longer slings for the last 2 bolts make for a smoother ride. |
By steven sadler From: south jordan, UT Jul 5, 2012
| Just before the roof you can get the best knee bar i've ever had. just adds to the fun of this route. Definately don't cheat yourself and go right. going straight up over the roof where the bolt is was awesome. |
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