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Mary's Bust - main buttress
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Unsorted Routes:

Out Of Time 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: R.M. Wright, ShiAnn Zimmerman
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,032
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

OOT begins on easy terrain that gets harder and harder the higher you climb. P1 ticks in at 5.10 with a thin crux at 70 feet. It ends at double chains and is a good pitch by itself.

P1 has lots of good places to rest.

P2 is at least solid at 5.11 with two distinct cruxes and continuous burly moves for 40 feet getting off the belay. A tough mantle out of a shallow pod nets a good stance to launch the finish - which is much thinner and more devious than it looks.

Noto bene: P1 has two places where one can exit to the left. The lower of these puts you directly over the hard route behind the flake and avoids the crux of P1. The upper of these gains a belay stance for the route running up the deep water groove. The two pitches of OOT are largely vectorial, straight up. However, one can link P1 to the groove pitch for a very different style of climbing.


Location 

This is 50 feet right of the flake growing out of the trail. Locate chains at 90 feet. The route is right of MJ and looks very easy in the start.


Protection 

Fifteen draws will get P2, 12 for P1. If you are climbing through P1 to the chains, a sling just below the crux will prevent rope drag. A 60 meter rope is required for descent from both pitches. The top of P2 is a tad less than 200 feet off the deck. On the ground, pull the rope to the left to avoid the tree.



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By allen simons
Sep 8, 2009

The description is good. Easy climbing that gradually gets more difficult culminating at the crux. Another fun route.

By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Jul 12, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fair warning: The Mountain Shop topo lists the second pitch as "10c." Maybe it's an 11--but maybe/probably it'd go at 10d with superior beta for the thin, desperate, sequencey crux (of which I have none beyond "go left-ish", since I thrutched through it). Certainly not c.

That said, Out of Time? Out of someone's mind. The first pitch is fine, I suppose. A bucket of 5.7 happyland to an awkward, one-move wonder 5.10 bulge.

The second pitch is pure crystalline nightmare ugliness. As though SOMEbody lost a bet and had to go drill up yet another shit show...

By Nathan Welton
From: Estes Park, CO
May 14, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I thought this was great fun. The first pitch was pretty basic, but the second pitch was continuous and technical. I figure 5.9 or 5.10a for the first pitch and 5.11b for the second. Not sure what was so horrible about the second pitch... ???