"Out of the Wilderness" (on Bottom Slab)
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British PG13
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, TR, 190 ft (58 m) |
FA: | FA - Unknown / As Climbed By : RH & RW Aug 2015 |
Page Views: | 856 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Robert Hall on Aug 21, 2015 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
This climb is located on the slab/face BELOW the Half-Way Tree Ledge and starts on the ground at the base of the cliff...the Sandwich Range Wilderness.
While listed as "1 pitch climb" it is necessary to climb a second pitch on the "upper slab" to reach the normal access point...the top of the cliff.
ACCESS - Rap with two ropes from the 3/8" bolt (with gear back-up) at the top of Ringwraith to the double bolt anchor/station at the Half-Way Ledge. From here rap with two 60m ropes to the bottom of the cliff. (a 60m and a 50m probably will make it if the knot is moved several feet down from the anchors)
P1 - Start on the ground below 2 or 3 easy overlaps.
Climb up and over the easy overlaps and then pad up easy slab 25-35 ft to a detached flake on the right with a more secure flake above; the more secure forms a left-facing shallow corner. Continue up this on good rock to a crack (crux, photo, "upper part of route"), then step left and up to the double bolt anchor/station on the Half-Way Ledge. 190 ft 5.6 PG-13
Finish on one of the routes on the Upper Slab, Ringwraith is suggested if you haven't done it.
While listed as "1 pitch climb" it is necessary to climb a second pitch on the "upper slab" to reach the normal access point...the top of the cliff.
ACCESS - Rap with two ropes from the 3/8" bolt (with gear back-up) at the top of Ringwraith to the double bolt anchor/station at the Half-Way Ledge. From here rap with two 60m ropes to the bottom of the cliff. (a 60m and a 50m probably will make it if the knot is moved several feet down from the anchors)
P1 - Start on the ground below 2 or 3 easy overlaps.
Climb up and over the easy overlaps and then pad up easy slab 25-35 ft to a detached flake on the right with a more secure flake above; the more secure forms a left-facing shallow corner. Continue up this on good rock to a crack (crux, photo, "upper part of route"), then step left and up to the double bolt anchor/station on the Half-Way Ledge. 190 ft 5.6 PG-13
Finish on one of the routes on the Upper Slab, Ringwraith is suggested if you haven't done it.
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