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Eavesdown Docks
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Alliance, The S 
Black Market Beagles S 
Browncoat S 
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Captain Hammer S 
Captain Mal S 
Captain Tight Pants S 
Companion, The S 
Damage My Calm S 
Firefly S 
Jubal S 
Oh Captain! My Captain! S 
Out of Gas S 
Out to the Black S 
Shindig S 
Sudden, Yet Inevitable Betrayal S 
Too Pretty to Die  S 

Out of Gas 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Darren Knezek
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,575
Submitted By: Darren Knezek on Sep 7, 2013

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Wayne Pullman leading Out of Gas 5.9.

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A truly fun jug haul whose start climbs like the 5.9 gym route on the lead wall. You know: the one that's super steep with huge jugs that you think doesn't exist outside.

Start at the base of a right-facing corner (same start as for Shindig) and head up and then left on big holds. At the second bolt, head farther left using big moves on bigger holds with dicey feet. Make the transition to the face and enjoy the big pockets for a couple of bolts until a ledge.

After the ledge climb next to the left-facing flake, marveling that the flake isn't coming off.

A tenuous couple of moves right before the chains and then it's over.

Location 

Starts up the right-facing corner that marks the end of the overhanging rock above the wider, flat spot in the trail. Shares its first bolt with Shindig.

Protection 

9 bolts, ring anchors (shared with Captain Tight Pants to the left).


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By nooky brown
Sep 8, 2013

Two cents worth.
Move the top bolts 3 feet left for a nicer (9+ish) finish on the black wall.
Or lower the anchor down to the half way ledge and it will become the most done 5.9 in the canyon.
Giving it 3 stars to the mid ledge only.
Good work gents.
By Austin Baird
From: SLC, Utah
Sep 12, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great route Darren!
By Mahcire
May 20, 2014

Though the top might be a little easier, it is still a lot of fun. Possibly my new favorite 9.