Out of Control
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This is a very enjoyable pitch. Great rock, aesthetic jamming, and nice rests to take in the view.
The crack is mostly splitter finger/thin hand jams. At the top there's a short widening crack which leads up into an A-frame roof. You need some larger gear here (#3.5 Ė 4 Camalot) but donít have to do any real OW moves. Cool moves lead to a nice belay ledge with rap chains, just above the roof.
standard rack to 4". A couple extra .5 - 1" pieces are useful.
Shayne Durfee pulling the roof
Out of Control start
Out of Control near bottom
Out of control 3
Out of control 4
Otu of control 5
Out of control near top
Out of control fat crack ( you might want to lay o...
Joe Lee on route
|Comments on Out of Control
|By Aaron S|
Dec 16, 2006
Fwiw, the route is not 160'. I was able to rap it with a 70m with room to spare.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 23, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
glad i didnt read this before going out...would have blown the onsight.
great climb- we thought a 70m would work, that would have been nice to know!
|By Bill Bones|
Nov 5, 2007
This route is only 130 feet tall. A 70 meter will work. Great route. Had a blast on it. 10 c seems to sound about right.
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 2, 2009
I climbed this a few years ago and went to it again on 1/31/09. When I stepped left and up into the second crack system, the chockstone that creates it moved significantly. I'm not sure if this was the case when I last climbed it, however, there was a hairline fracture in the stone that looked fairly new. Just a word of caution - the chock stone is jammed in there pretty good and will likely not come out, but when I hand jammed the crack it shifted. Any gear placed around it will run the chance of shifting as well and possibly pulling.
|By Chris S|
Oct 1, 2009
An excellent route! Its amazing that a photo of it didn't make it into Handren's guide.
But the recommended rack ("standard rack up to 4 inches, extra .5-1 inch useful") works only if a standard rack is doubles of everything! Which is what I recommend for this route: NO stoppers, doubles of cams from 0.4-3", triple 0.5-1", and single 4" cam. 2-4 quickdraws and 1-2 shoulder length slings to extend pro in the o.w. and roof. Then send!
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 31, 2010
This is probably one of the top ten 5.10 crack pitches at Red Rocks.
Here is the rack I would bring next time:
Single set of cams from green alien to #4fr
2x 0.3/0.4 C4
4x 0.5 C4
3x 0.75/1 C4
Just make sure you save the #3 and #4fr for the pod and the #2 for the roof finish.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 8, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
A very good crack climb that has few of the usual red rock crimps. A few layoffs in the pod up high will get you past some otherwise painful moves. It has multiple rests so not fully sustained for the entire 120 feet however the top fat crack is stout. I agree with above gear comments - double set of all sizes 1/2 to 3 inches (triple in 3/4 to 1 inch range would have been nice) with a couple tiny cams and at least one big cam for the wide section. See photo sequence for a review of the route.
|By Patrick Mulligan|
Dec 12, 2011
I did this route almost 10 years ago, but it has stuck with me. It wasn't one distinct crux that gets you on this thing, but somehow I was pretty spent by the end. There are however some very good rests. With American Ninja and Remote Control close by its worth spending a morning in the area. I need to look at my notes, but I believe we also climbed a route in this area at easy .10 called Control Freak...
Jan 23, 2012
WOOOOOOO! This route is GOOD!
Rack: SR 00-4, 2x .4-2, 3-4 .5, .75, 1.
Climbs very much like a creek splitter with a couple of cool face "cheats", so I'd reccommend protecting it like one. White+pink rock as well-soft stuff for Red Rock. Really nice 10+ testpiece that keeps your interest the whole way, sustained in ringlocks-thin hands for my size hands. The earlier comment about the loose block is on the money-this might turn into an OW if someone managed to trundle that beast. Save #2 and a long sling for the finish, our group disagreed about location of the crux area, seemed very size dependant. Anchor's in good shape, enjoy!
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 9, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
This one is burl-doggin' for sure. Holy shit. I was kicking and screaming on this. Hardest 10c I've climbed. So good. So physical. Rap easily with a 70m.
From: Oak Park, CA
Apr 12, 2013
Handren book indicated triples of 1" to 3" plus a 4" piece. Just those. Brought up two 0.75 pieces anyway from eyeing the crack from ground. The crux of this ascent was remaining calm and unresentful while bumping up the lone red Link Cam for dreadful long stretches of fingers, trying not to think about the huge 50 ft air if the bumping goes awry with a peel off. Like some have mentioned, would add one 0.4 (yellow Alien), three 0.5 (red Alien), and a third 0.75 piece. Could also pare down to either one 2" piece and three 3" or two of each.
Fantastic soaring splitter with wild roof finish.