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Elevation: 7,766 ft
GPS: 38.02432, -107.67134
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 473,361 total · 1,766/month
Shared By: Malcolm Daly on Mar 15, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Ice Climbing Suggest change

For good reason, you'll see more ice climbers in Ouray than any other place in the world. There are more accessible ice routes here than anywhere else I can imagine. The locals have created an artificial climbing ice world by tapping into a penstock and dripping the water over the cliffs of the Uncompaghre Gorge. There are literraly hundreds of possible lines here, and an infinite number of variations.

The Uncompaghre Gorge is to ice climbing as Rifle is to rock climbing. A crucible where you can test your technique, tools, huevos and patience. That's right, the place is so popular you'll want to have a thermos of coffee handy for the waits. For those wanting adventure, head up the Camp Bird Road to the routes up there. You'll find classics like the Skylight, Birdbrain Blvd and the Ribbon.

For a great apres-dinner activity (You did eat at the Buen Tiempo, didn't you?) hike up the road to the "real" Box Canyon. It's an Indiana Jones-esque labrynth of granite slots, thundering waterfalls and suspension bridges that is wonderfully weird and spooky at night. For best effect, don't bring your headlamps, don't tell anyone where you're going and be sure to under-dress and wear smooth soled shoes.

Best of Ouray: Ice

Best Breakfast: Sunroom at the Vic, but you've gotta be staying there or Backstreet Bistro.

Best Breakfast if you're not staying at the Vic: (The Groundskeeper is gone!)

Best Hotel: The Vic (Duh!) but the Riverside is a very close second and the Weisbaden has those cool vapor caves.

Best Dinner: The Buen Tiempo (sadly, closed) or Bon Ton.
 Best Dinner Value: Botomless Pasta Bowl Night at Bon Ton on Thursdays
.

Best Bar: The Silver Eagle.

Best Guide Service: San Juan Mountain Guides or Peak Mountain Guides.

Best Shop: Ouray Mountain Sports.

Best Beer: Mr. Grumpy Pants, AKA Ourayle House, AKA Hutch's.

Eds. note the additions in italics were suggested by doligo.

Getting There Suggest change

From Montrose, take US Hwy 550 about 40 miles south to Ouray. Easy.

Ice video

Suggest change
For an ice video by Ouray Ice Park: vimeo.com/57924628.

Ourayicepark.com or 970-325-34288.

279 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Ouray (Ice/Mixed) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Ouray (Ice/Mixed)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5-6 M5+ R
 15
Killer Pillar
Trad, Mixed, Ice
WI4+ M4-5
 159
Skylight
Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI4-5
 45
Brass Tacks
Trad, Ice
WI5
 40
Popsicle
Trad, Ice
WI5 M3
 41
Gravity's Rainbow
Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI5 M5
 50
Bird Brain Boulevard
Trad, Mixed, Ice 7 pitches
WI5-6 M6
 23
The Talisman
Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI4
 80
The Ribbon
Trad, Ice 4 pitches
WI5 R
 34
Duncan's Delight
Trad, TR, Ice
WI4
 165
Pick o' the Vic
Trad, TR, Ice
M8+
 20
Mighty Aphrodite
Sport, Mixed
WI4
 11
Kennedy's Gully
Trad, Ice 7 pitches
WI4-
 72
Charmin Tube
Trad, Ice 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b WI4 M6-7
 22
Jesus Christ Built My Finger Crack
Trad, Mixed, Ice
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a WI4+ M6-7
 61
Tic Tac
Trad, Mixed, Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Killer Pillar Camp Bird Rd
 15
WI5-6 M5+ R Trad, Mixed, Ice
Skylight Camp Bird Rd
 159
WI4+ M4-5 Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Brass Tacks Uncompahgre Gor… > Between the Bridges
 45
WI4-5 Trad, Ice
Popsicle Uncompahgre Gor… > Lower Bridge to Scott…
 40
WI5 Trad, Ice
Gravity's Rainbow US Highway 550
 41
WI5 M3 Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Bird Brain Boulevard Camp Bird Rd
 50
WI5 M5 Trad, Mixed, Ice 7 pitches
The Talisman Camp Bird Rd
 23
WI5-6 M6 Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
The Ribbon Camp Bird Rd
 80
WI4 Trad, Ice 4 pitches
Duncan's Delight Uncompahgre Gor… > Alcove/Pic of the Vic…
 34
WI5 R Trad, TR, Ice
Pick o' the Vic Uncompahgre Gor… > Alcove/Pic of the Vic…
 165
WI4 Trad, TR, Ice
Mighty Aphrodite Uncompahgre Gor… > Lower Bridge to Scott…
 20
M8+ Sport, Mixed
Kennedy's Gully US Highway 550
 11
WI4 Trad, Ice 7 pitches
Charmin Tube US Highway 550
 72
WI4- Trad, Ice 3 pitches
Jesus Christ Built My Finge… Uncompahgre Gor… > Alcove/Pic of the Vic…
 22
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b WI4 M6-7 Trad, Mixed, Ice
Tic Tac Uncompahgre Gor… > Lower Bridge to Scott…
 61
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a WI4+ M6-7 Trad, Mixed, Ice
More Classic Climbs in Ouray (Ice/Mixed) »

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