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Whiskey Peak
Routes Sorted
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Amber T 
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Canadian Club T 
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Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 
First Grader T 
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Kenny Laguna T 
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Miss Conception T,S 
Misunderstanding, The T 
Only the Good Die Young T,S 
Our Father T 
Perplexity T 
Raindance T,S 
Return To Forever T 
Sand Felipe S 
Tales from the Gripped T,S 
Triassic Sands T 
Wholesome Fullback T 
Unsorted Routes:

Our Father 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rich Wheeler, Joe Herbst, R. Grandstaff, & Vern Clevenger - 1977
Page Views: 5,404
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Mar 16, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (74)
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The beautiful corner pitch. Photo by Darshan Ahlu...

Description 

Our Father is an absolutely fantastic climb that goes up the right side of the Wholesome Fullback pinnacle.

Begin just right of the Delicate Sound of Thunder at a shallow left-facing, left-leaning corner.

P1: Climb the corner at 5.7+ to a tree. Belay or easily link with P2.

P2: Continue up the runout face above, generally trending left, past one bolt. Ignore the old hangers off the the right. 5.9+ serious.

P3: Climb the obvious, beautiful right-facing corner to a two-bolt anchor at the top of the pillar. 5.10.

Rap the route with one rope.


Protection 

Standard rack up to #2 Camalot.



Photos of Our Father Slideshow Add Photo
3rd Pitch, Our Father.
3rd Pitch, Our Father.
Detail of the upper dihedral on Our Father.
BETA PHOTO: Detail of the upper dihedral on Our Father.
Bennett in the classic dihedral of P3
Bennett in the classic dihedral of P3
Stef on P1
Stef on P1
Our Father
Our Father
Classic crack on Our Father
Classic crack on Our Father
Comments on Our Father Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 27, 2014
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 11, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

This is a great route, but the seriousness of the second pitch should not be underestimated. Edit: There is some decent gear- small cams/nuts a little ways off the belay, so keep your eyes open. Its probably best to link this pitch with the first to keep impact forces down should you blow it.

I'll also chime in and say that the final pitch is more like .10d Its steep and sustained .10 the whole way with a committing crux section that felt much harder. Edit: Upon returning to this route later, i'll agree with Tony- .9ish start to the increasingly difficult corner with a very distinct .10+ crux and a solid .10 finish.

rack- i ended up using a single rack to a #3 camalot with two green camalots on the final pitch, which would be just fine for the first pitch as well. maybe double up on something finger sized or smaller.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 7, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

After passing the tree on the top of P1, I felt safe and solid climbing to the first bolt of P2 on this climb as a single pitch. Athough this was some distance the climbing was easier in general than that of the first pitch, perhaps 5.7-. Anyone who can climb this route at all should not fall here. Low odds but high consequences I suppose, though the fall would be long it is not the worst a climber could take, and is on a clean slab.
As for the last pitch, 10d is right, but the first 30' is perfect handjams (5.9-) and the second half is considerably harder, yes, about 10d (.75-1.5" gear)

By Brian Weinstein
Apr 25, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

We combined the first two pitches easily. High quality and diverse route.

By Mark SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 8, 2009

Agree w/ the comment about pitch 2. 2 old(er) bolts protect the crux slab moves, then head up and right, and it's not hard but a bit balancy w/ no pro. If you have a small tcu (purple c3 maybe? - I didn't have) you might fashion a placement on the ledge you're standing on/by. I had only blue metolius and up so I had to pull the rail and slot a yellow or orange (can't remember) metolious in a horizontal. Pro is bomber from then on up the flake. And pitch 3 is worth it. So sweet.

By Aleix
Apr 10, 2009

If someone finds a gray winter hat in the ledge up and right from the base of the third pitch (below rappel anchors), please contact me.

By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Apr 21, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

I think saying the 2nd pitch is arbitrary is misleading depending on your strengths as a climber. They're credit card crimpers, if one breaks...

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 24, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R

The third pitch as about as good as it gets for hand crack climb and takes great gear. The second pitch is scary and would be very bad if you blew it so if you are not comfortable climbing the third 5.10d pitch you likely do not want to get on this second pitch. I gave the second pitch an R rating since you would probably be hurt severely if you fell.

By Brandontru
From: Nevada
Mar 4, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Very fun route. The slab on p2 is a bit runout, as soon as get visual of p3 it starts to be more understandable why you want to get up there.

Still a bit spooky though.

By Zappatista
May 9, 2011

I put this one off for a long time because of assumed hardware issues with the long runout on the crappy bolt. Three things:

1 All the hardware is as bomber as you could ever wish. New, strong, solid.

2 There's a 4 BD stopper that's iffy before the bolt-if you bring a blue Ballnut (smallest), there's a SOLID placement to get you to the bolt. Worth having with you.

3 The final corner is nowhere near as straightforward as it looks. Purple TCU with a draw pre-rigged might save you enough time to not butter when you get to the first pod, and then you better stomp the gas-it doesn't get done til you clip the chains!

By eDixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

P2 is not that bad, not sustained, and there is a bolt where the climbing is the hardest, just be solid at the grade (R?). Didn't find P3 that sustained, a short section of thin fingers, overall a superb pitch.

By Shiho
Oct 5, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

The 3rd pitch is great, but the 2nd pitch scare the crap out of me!

By Thomas G.
From: SLC, Utah
Mar 15, 2012

I totally agree with Shiho on this one. The third pitch was worth getting up to, but the second pitch was pretty terrifying. We found that a small offset master cam protected the moves after the bolt, but did not have a blue ball-nut, so getting to it was certainly the mental crux of the route. All things considered, this climb is a gem.

By TommyWiggins
From: Nanuet, NY
Oct 28, 2012

If you wanted to only climb the money pitch, you could access it on rappel after climbing Wholesome Fullback (10a) which is a two pitch climb to the left of this one.

By Roger Suen
From: Los Angeles, CA
Nov 26, 2012

The second pitch is much less runout than it showed in the Flacon Guide.
It's a decent distance to get to the 1st set of bolts (1 old 1 new next to each other) slightly up and right, but the climbing is the easiest of the pitch.
Then there's a new bolt just above the first pair. From here you go slightly left and there's another brand new bolt, between these 2 is the crux. After the last bolt, there's only a move or 2 that's 5.9, then it more like 5.6 or 5.7.
Once, in the corner there's gear (thin stuff).

So do the climb, don't let the R scare you!

By Zappatista
Nov 28, 2012

Rob, you and I replaced bolts on Delicate Sound and Tales From The Gripped that day. We didn't have to touch P2 of Our Fadda as all that was already done. The ones we didn't finish dealing with were on P2 of Tales, that was when we finally gave in to our scratchy throats and descended to get water and Haterade.

I think Roger's description is making it sound like there is a sport section on that pitch, but I'd bet at most someone may have replaced the formerly chopped second bolt recently. This probably isn't any big deal since the 1-to-1 was just stepped up back in the day to eliminate a very close 2nd bolt, and the addition of a new replacement isn't really making any great difference one way or another. That said, if retros are going in up there, they will be removed, I'm sure. Very sure.

The route's sick regardless. Enjoy!

By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

We accidentally climbed this route thinking it was the start to wholesome fullback. So glad we did! A couple notes: I felt the first pitch was probably 5.8 and the second pitch was harder than 5.9. It was not unsafe though. You can get a bomber blue TCU in a scar before the first bolt and the crux moves are bolt protected. This climb is rather safe. If you decide not to move left after the first two bolts you can also climb around the looming bulge on the right at 5.8/9ish. If you do this you'll need to move the belay for the third pitch. I also recommend linking the first two pitches. We did with minimal rope drag. The third pitch is awesome, so don't be scared away from this climb!

By Xtine
From: Sierra Eastside, CA
Jun 8, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R

Such a great route - one of my favorites here in BVC. Climbed in June and made the mistake of getting there too early (12:30 noonish). p1 was in the shade but didn't see over the first belay ledge from the base of the climb to notice that the crux pitch was full-on sun and still sunny by 1pm and later. Had a single rack to 3, doubles on .75-2 and blue and purple TCU's. Partner did a great job leading p1-2....p2 had 3 bolts and felt harder than 5.10 with its delicate, crimpy and slabby moves. P3: Bottom section is super secure (5.8ish), perfect hands and used one gold piece until above the first rest/ledge. Right off the ledge it still feels secure until a few feet before the first pod (main crux for me). Great friction on the wall for feet ...plenty of shallow dishes, so liebacking is excellent and secure but have the endurance for it...and higher up past the first pod, there are features on both walls that keep the rating in the 10s. This route is a must-do if you come to Red Rock, one of the best. Enjoy!

By Mostafa
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 8, 2013

Awesome climb! IMO you should do the whole climb and not just P3 by rapping wholesome fullback. Linking pitches 1&2 is the best way to go. P2 has a delicate move but not bad. The rap off the first pitch could use some love so take a little webbing.

By ACassebeer
From: Mojave, CA
Oct 21, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

The first pitch rappel (fixed nut and slung tree) can be avoided by rapping directly right 30 ft to the next route's anchor on a ledge. Two new bolts with rap rings.

By Ian C
Oct 23, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

Climbed this today. Beautiful corner crack on the 3rd pitch that requires some real endurance through the crux that makes the whole climb worth while. Possible loose block somewhere up near the top of the crack. It rattled a bit when I went to pull on it. Just make sure your belayer is wearing their helmet. P2 was pretty serious. I wouldn't be very excited to do it again. I got through it fine. My partner at 5' 3" had some reach issues, but managed to get through it on TR having to do some sketchy moves just before the finish. Falling on TR on the second pitch would have made it pretty tough to get back on route after unclipping that last bolt, and poses the risk of taking a nice little swing. Might wanna make sure both you and your partner are solid slab climbers if you plan on doing this pitch, especially if you are short. I also made the mistake of leaving my pack unzipped and a coyote snagged some granola and made a mess of things. Lesson learned.

By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Nov 15, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

Rapped in via wholesome fullback. P3 was outstanding, and takes bomber gear the whole way. A great route to push the grade. I think my ideal rack if I get to get back on this one:
1x mastercam #0
2x mastercam #1,2,3
1x camalot # .4, .5
2x camalot # .75, 1, 2
nuts

By Kaleem Khwaja
From: Emeryville, California
Mar 28, 2014

P2 still has 4 bolts as of March 2014: 3 new, 1 old. One of the new ones is really nice to have, but the other seems really unnecessary. Plus you can get in plenty of pro before you reach the first bolt. I wouldn't even call the route PG at this point.

By Mason Caiby
Mar 30, 2014

this is way cool. the 3rd pitch is fantastic. the lower two arent amazing, but can be combo'd and you get the cushiest belay ledge.
i wouldn't give it R, maybe PG13 but really, PG. take small gear, if you climb 5.9, theres nothing to worry about

By Zappatista
Apr 27, 2014

Took a look at what John Wilder called "definitely retro" bolts on pitch 2 of Our Father, without looking at them. There aren't any retro bolts on the pitch.

The route to the right has been partially rebolted, and people are straying all over the place to be able to clip more bolts, even though these bolts apparently introduce cruxes climbing between one route and the other. Call the linkup "Our Gripped" but don't mistake some bolts 20+ feet right of the belay tree atop P1 as being part of Our Father. The heady second pitch@5.9 R still has only one pro bolt.