Ouiji Board  5.12b

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Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Andy Donson Jonny Copp New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Jay Brown on Sep 16, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> Serpent Point and the adjacent walls within one-half mile are closed to public use from March 15 through July 15. This includes the landscape portions above the walls extending 50 feet from the rim edge. This pertains to the following areas: North Rim areas - The Alpine Aretes, Porcelain Arete, and Painted Wall. These climbing routes are closed: Alpine Route, Porcelain Arete, On the Border, Broken Porcelain, Northern Arete, Beyer Route, The Dragon, The Serpent, Forrest-Walker, Stratosfear, Journey Through Mirkwood, and Southern Arete. South Rim areas - Dragon Point and Dragon Point Buttress. These climbing routes are closed: Pilgrimage, Crumb Blunder, Magic Dragon, Black Adder, Black Snake, Black Heathen, Black Dragon Rider, and Silent Rage. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A finger crack and face route with a little dirt on it, this route would clean up fine if more people climbed it. Awesome crux (protected with bolts)pitch!
Peg groove/seam to sport face moves.

P1- 5.8-5.9 face towards an old sling and then a short crux. 5.11c finger section to a ledge belay. 150'.

P2- continue up fingers at .11a to wander around 2 big bushes, right of the first, left of the second, all on flakier cracks to hanging belay on flake. 160'.

P3- "Bat roof" 5.11a climb "underjams" towards the right in a perfect hands roof then pull around side to fingers and left to ledge belay under peg stripe. 110'.

P4- send peg heading up right with thin gear to fixed nut under roof step, continue to follow crux bolted area to fixed blade then slightly runout but fun 5.9 or 5.10 face to right-facing flake with bolted belay above it, with small stance. 180'!

P5- continue to the large ledge of the Checkerboard Wall topouts via 5.9+ face climbing. 40'.

Location 

Take cruise raps to the checkerboard wall. Starts 10 feet before "Checkerboard Wall" route. Climb out of the bushes there towards a finger crack out a bulge above.

Protection 

1-set RPs, 1-set Lowe balls, 3-sets TCUs, 1-set stoppers, double cams.